[open up wide...]I finally had a chance to make it down to
Elevation Burger in Harbor East the other day. EB is the latest Baltimore addition to the veritable fungus patch of upscale burger places(5 Guys, Shake Shack, Steak n Shake, Burger Bros., Abbey Burger Bistro) popping up all over the place. This one is part of an Arlington, Va.-based chain that sports the slogan, "Ingredients Matter." Well, duh. This sort of marketing strategy didn't work with Papa John's Pizza, either, but then again, PJ wasn't pushing organic, grass-fed beef and fries cooked in olive oil, and if most of Elevation's locations are in yuppy enclaves like Harbor East (as in, literally 100 feet from the nearest Whole Foods front door), they'll do well.
The first thing you notice when you enter Elevation Burger is that everything is very blue:
[i've got the...]I dunno if this is some sort of attempt at a mental slimming effect (ie, blue = water = clear and pure = healthy) meant to off-set the greasiness of the food, but friends, if it was, it had no effect on me. I ordered the eponymous signature burger, which is basically their version of the 5 Guys two-patties bacon cheeseburger, only with "Elevation Sauce," which is, predictably, just mayo and ketchup mixed together, not some mysterious delicious unfamiliar concoction, as euphemized by the cashier, who told me it was a "tomato-based cream sauce."
Two things struck me about this burger. One, the meat is
great, but not
great like in the sense of so-full-of-juice and cooked-to-a-flawless-medium-rare and rubbed-with-something-subtle-and-really-tasty, like the meat at Elevation's Arlington neighbor,
Ray's Hell Burger, arguably the best burger, meatwise, I've sampled in the Tri-State Area. Two, the toppings on this thing were really interesting. The pickles were sweet, not dill, and really crunchy. The tomato robust. A big sheath of green leaf lettuce, and bacon that was still crispy, not limp. The overall impression here was one of
freshness. As in, each mouthful was crunchy, then the meat (with generous 1/8-inch thick slice of cheddar) would provide a contrasting give, texture-wise, that was just damn nice.
[floating in the blue]I got the fries too, which were actually a tad banal, but made tasty and redeemed completely by the fact that there is a shaker of Old Bay on every table in this joint. Is that just a Baltimore thing, I wonder? I 'preeshed it. Anyway, the the healthy and culinary benefits of an olive oil fry were not really detectable. Guys, there's a reason fries are done most places in fatty oils like peanut, or, say, duck fat. They're friggin' delicious.
Oh, and one more thing. Coffee and Oreo milkshake (I had to, frankly) was delicious, but not
Good Stuff-quality richness. I took a nap after that one you better BELIEVE.
FOOD: A
Just really solid burger fare, here. I'd need to go back and sample everything, but no messing around, good meat, solid (if a bit boring) fries, and a nice thick shake. Well done!
PRICE: B+
I think I paid something like $5.49 for the burger, then $2.89 for fries, and $4.39 for the shake. A bit more than I normally care to spend for lunch, but this was an exploration.
AMBIENCE: C
This place actually doesn't feel like it has any business producing burgers as good as the ones it produces. It's very, Oh-I-shop-at-Arhaus modern, with metal chairs and tables and a characterless outdoor patio (could use some plants). Inside, the tables are way too close together and everything's creepily blue. Crowd seems mostly Harbor East yuppie (Laureate lesson-plan writer? Legg Mason dividend processor?), which doesn't bother me, but doesn't add much either.