In looking back at the baking of this challah bread, I realized I knew nothing about it, other than the fact that it made darn good french toast. Which is certainly enough information to bake it, but I knew there was more to this little loaf. I read up on the history of challah and found that two loaves are blessed during the three Sabbath meals, and two holiday meals, to symbolize the two portions of manna that came from Heaven during the Israelites’ Exodus from Egypt. Some sites said the three braids of challah symbolize truth, peace, and justice. Other sites said the braids represent arms intertwined and symbolize love. I am actually glad I didn’t know any of this until after I made my first two loaves of challah. I was already nervous enough about three risings in my notoriously cold kitchen (which I found out ultimately takes longer, but leads to a much more developed flavor). I had to braid and rebraid this bread three times and I still don’t think it turned out exactly right (there’s a big hump there at the very beginning that bothers me!). I was paranoid about overbaking and overbrowning and it was truly torture to let these things cool off before cutting into them (which is the case with everything I bake!). Knowing that meaningful history behind the bread would have made me even more nervous…to know my truth hunk of challah was bigger than my peace hunk would’ve probably led to at least two more rebraids. Yet, after all my worries, I think my challah turned out beautiful AND it tasted delicious AND it made for some darn fine french toast! I love everything about this bread, especially its history, and I can’t wait to make it again (neither can Walter…dogs love challah, too)!
Challah– from Smitten Kitchen/adapted from Joan Nathan
The secrets to good challah are simple: Use two coats of egg wash to get that laquer-like crust and don’t overbake it. Joan Nathan, who this recipe is adapted from, adds that three risings always makes for the tastiest loaves, even better if one of them is slowed down in the fridge.
Time: about 1 hour, plus 2 1/2 hours’ rising (way more if your kitchen is cold!)
Yield: 2 loaves
1 1/2 packages active dry yeast (1 1/2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon plus 1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup olive or vegetable oil, plus more for greasing the bowl (I used butter for the bowl)
5 large eggs
1 tablespoon salt
8 to 8 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup raisins per challah, if using, plumped in hot water and drained
Poppy or sesame seeds for sprinkling (optional)
1. In a large bowl, dissolve yeast and 1 tablespoon sugar in 1 3/4 cups lukewarm water.
2. Whisk oil into yeast, then beat in 4 eggs, one at a time, with remaining sugar and salt. Gradually add flour. When dough holds together, it is ready for kneading. (You can also use a mixer with a dough hook for both mixing and kneading, but be careful if using a standard size KitchenAid–it’s a bit much for it, though it can be done.)
3. Turn dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth. Clean out bowl and grease it, then return dough to bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place for 1 hour, until almost doubled in size. Dough may also rise in an oven that has been warmed to 150 degrees then turned off. Punch down dough, cover and let rise again in a warm place for another half-hour.
4. At this point, you can knead the raisins into the challah, if you’re using them, before forming the loaves. To make a 6-braid challah, either straight or circular, take half the dough and form it into 6 balls. With your hands, roll each ball into a strand about 12 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Place the 6 in a row, parallel to one another. Pinch the tops of the strands together. Move the outside right strand over 2 strands. Then take the second strand from the left and move it to the far right. Take the outside left strand and move it over 2. Move second strand from the right over to the far left. Start over with the outside right strand. Continue this until all strands are braided. For a straight loaf, tuck ends underneath. For a circular loaf, twist into a circle, pinching ends together. Make a second loaf the same way. Place braided loaves on a greased cookie sheet with at least 2 inches in between.
5. Beat remaining egg and brush it on loaves. Either freeze breads or let rise another hour.
6. If baking immediately, preheat oven to 375 degrees and brush loaves again. Sprinkle bread with seeds, if using. If freezing, remove from freezer 5 hours before baking.
7. Bake in middle of oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden. (If you have an instant read thermometer, you can take it out when it hits an internal temperature of 190 degrees.) Cool loaves on a rack.
Note: Any of the three risings can be done in the fridge or a cold kitchen for a few hours, for more deeply-developed flavor. When you’re ready to work with it again, bring it back to room temperature before moving onto the next step.
Round or straight braid? Raisins or skip them? Straight loaves of braided challah are eaten throughout the year–typically on the Sabbath–round challahs, often studded with raisins, are served for the New Year and the other High Holidays that follow.
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