Hey guys! 😊 Hope y’all are doing great!

Today—almost nine months after my earlier post on the Maha Kumbh Mela 2025—I’m thrilled to share my recent temple trip to Vijayawada and Srisailam in Andhra Pradesh.

Read: Discovering the Magic of Maha Kumbh Mela 2025

For any new readers here who aren’t familiar with my travel adventures, here’s a quick intro: In December 2015, I fulfilled one of my biggest dreams by visiting every single state in India. That epic solo journey wrapped up in Kolkata and the Northeast states of Mizoram and Tripura.

Read: My India Travel Series

Since then, most of my trips have been family outings or travels with one of my two sisters—until this divine solo pilgrimage!

This solo temple tour took me to Vijayawada and Srisailam in Andhra Pradesh (24th–28th November 2025) and then Hyderabad-Secunderabad in Telangana (28th–30th November 2025)—my first solo adventure in a full 10 years.

Throughout my travels across India, I’ve always gravitated toward sacred Jyotirlinga temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. I’ve been blessed to visit most of the 12 Jyotirlingas, and with just a few left, I told myself, “Why not complete the set?” After all, I’ve already explored all the holy rivers, the four Char Dhams, the holiest moksha-granting sites in Hinduism, and more.

Read the first in the series: Discovering Sacred Destinations in India – I

In March (on a family trip), I visited the sacred Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga in Nashik, where the holy Godavari River originates. Often called the “Dakshin Ganga” (Southern Ganga), it flows eastward for approximately 1,465 km (India’s second-longest river after the Ganga) through Maharashtra, Telangana, Chhattisgarh (minor), and Andhra Pradesh before emptying into the Bay of Bengal through a large delta.

That left only three Jyotirlingas unvisited: Mallikarjuna in Andhra Pradesh, Grishneshwar in Maharashtra, and Baidyanath in Jharkhand.

The dense jungles of Srisailam have long been linked with revered Hindu gurus and sages. Nestled deep in this forested region lies the sacred Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga temple—one that’s been on my bucket list for years. I was simply waiting for the Lord’s call, which finally came toward the end of July. That’s when I decided to head to Srisailam and Vijayawada.

In South India, November and December mark the peak pilgrimage season. You’ll see devotees in cream-colored attire heading to Srisailam’s Mallikarjuna temple, those in black bound for Sabarimala’s Ayyappa Swamy temple in Kerala, and those in red journeying to Hanuman Ji’s birthplace on Anjanadri Hill near Hampi in Karnataka.

I have such fond memories of my month-long solo temple trip through Tamil Nadu and Kerala in November–December 2006, so I chose late November for this visit too. My last trip to Andhra Pradesh was back in May 2015, when I explored Visakhapatnam (Vizag).

Read: East India Travel – 5: Visakhapatnam

Decades earlier, in 1989, our family vacation took us to Hyderabad (then part of Andhra Pradesh). Since 2 June 2014, Hyderabad has been the capital of the newly formed state of Telangana.

Most pilgrims travel to Srisailam from Hyderabad (about 210–215 km away). But since I also wanted to visit the highly revered Kanaka Durga Mata temple in Vijayawada, I planned the route as Vijayawada → Srisailam → Hyderabad. Srisailam is roughly 250–255 km from Vijayawada. This way, I could experience both scenic forest routes!

 

So here’s my story… 

My trip began in Mumbai on Monday, November 24. My 4:15 PM IndiGo flight was delayed until 7 PM, finally landing in Vijayawada at 8:45 PM. The hotel I’d chosen was more than 20 km from the airport—picked specifically for its proximity to the majestic Kanaka Durga Mata temple atop Indrakeeladri Hill, overlooking the holy Krishna River, and to the city’s iconic Prakasam Barrage.

In the airport cab, I followed the route on Google Maps, noting landmarks and making on-the-ground observations. Almost every signboard was in Telugu, adding to the sense of being fully immersed in Andhra Pradesh.

My riverfront hotel sat right opposite the Prakasam Barrage—an impressive engineering marvel completed in 1957. This 1,223.5-meter-long modern barrage doubles as a road bridge across the Krishna, seamlessly connecting Vijayawada with Guntur.

We reached the hotel around 9:30 PM. The restaurant was about to close, so I hurried in. The manager said the “tiffin” (salad, rice, dal, and veggies) meal was over, so I ordered a Masala Dosa instead. It arrived quickly—large, crispy, and absolutely delicious. The local Guntur chilli (Pandi mirchi) is a true spice bomb! The red masala paste on the crepe was fiery, and the potato filling even spicier. Starving after the long day, I polished off the steaming-hot dosa in minutes. By then, it was past closing time; the manager shut down hurriedly and left at the same time I did.

My fifth-floor room was comfortable and offered a stunning night view of the illuminated golden temple and the flowing Krishna River. I only noticed this beauty just before climbing into bed—I’d been preoccupied with my stubborn suitcase. The combination lock had jammed completely. After a fierce struggle (and a few bruises on my hand), I finally yanked the pullers free and got it open. That ordeal shattered my trust in the lock, so I decided to buy a new one the next day.

The following morning, I had a 6 AM Antaraalaya Darshanam ticket (₹500) for entry into the Garbha Griha (inner sanctum). I woke at 4 AM to reach the temple by 5:30 AM, hoping to beat any crowds for a peaceful darshan of the Goddess.

As soon as I stirred, the faint sound of Devi mantras drifting up from the temple instantly refreshed my mind. I’d expected the city to be asleep at that hour, but no—vehicle horns blared, and I could see people and traffic already on the roads. Locals told me autorickshaws run 24/7, and I’d easily find one right outside the hotel. Vijayawada wakes up very early! It reminded me of lively Madrid in 2004—though in a completely different context. After attending the inauguration of an international salsa symposium and dancing the night away at a buzzing disco, I returned to my hotel in Plaza del Sol around 4 AM—only to discover the streets still thrumming with cars, laughter, and people everywhere, refusing to sleep.

Read: My unforgettable moments in Madrid

I’d read about a ropeway to the hilltop Kanaka Durga Mata temple, starting near the Prakasam Barrage foothills. But when I asked the hotel desk clerk, he mentioned an elevator that goes right up to the temple.

At 5:30 AM, I hailed a passing autorickshaw. The ride was short, and as we approached the temple complex entrance, the majestic gopuram towered above the hill—grand and awe-inspiring.

(Of course, this photo was taken after my visit—the area was pitch dark at 5:30 AM. In hindsight, I wish I’d captured the well-lit temple with the golden vimana of the central shrine gleaming beautifully against the night sky. But honestly, photos rarely do justice to such divine, awe-inspiring sights.)

Legend has it that when the temple closes at 10 PM, Kanaka Durga Mata leaves to watch over the city and its people, returning at 4 AM when the doors reopen. She embodies the very spirit of Vijayawada—its protector and heart. So, I was deeply disappointed to see a dargah encroaching near the entrance to Her abode. I learned on X that it’s a recent issue, with users already raising complaints to government authorities. It’s disheartening to witness such petty games played in the name of religion and politics—disrespect toward Devi Durga Mata, the city’s ancient patron deity, who has been revered for millennia. It felt like ingratitude from residents and a lack of courage to stand up for Her sanctity. The sight truly disturbed me.

At many religious hilltop sites, pilgrims climb via stairs as a form of penance, treating each step as a blessing. Here, the ascent up Indrakeeladri Hill involves around 400 steps. I opted for the convenient elevator. The ropeway service was unavailable during my visit.

Before entering the main gate, devotees must deposit their footwear and mobile phones at the designated counters provided by the temple.

 

A bit about the temple’s history…

Sri Kanaka Durga Temple (officially Sri Durga Malleswara Swamy Varla Devasthanam) is the cultural and spiritual heartbeat of Vijayawada. As one of the prominent Shakti Peethas and a major pilgrimage center, it draws millions of devotees each year. This powerful shrine is renowned for fulfilling wishes.

The presiding deity faces northeast: a Swayambhu (self-manifested) eight-armed form of Mahishasura Mardini Durga, adorned with radiant gold ornaments—“Kanaka” meaning gold. Kanaka Durga Mata, the Goddess of power, wealth, and benevolence, grants strength, courage, and protection to Her devotees. Many believe She fulfills desires, especially those tied to bravery and prosperity.

Mythology says the Goddess personally chose to reside on Indrakeeladri Hill to bless Vijayawada (anciently known as Vijayavata or, in some inscriptions, Rajendracholapura).

The temple appears in ancient texts like the Kanaka Durga Mahatmya and has been patronized by kings and saints across centuries. Various dynasties contributed to its construction and upkeep. Built in classic Dravidian architectural style, it stands as both a profoundly sacred site and a grand cultural heritage from antiquity.

The nine-tiered gopuram features intricate sculptures, and the main shrine is crowned by a golden vimana (tower). It’s especially magnificent during Navratri, when the entire hill is illuminated and visible from miles away.

Ancient legends abound here…

In the Krita Yuga, Devi Durga Mata slayed the demon Mahishasura, who terrorized the world—symbolizing the eternal triumph of good over evil. Afterward, She manifested on the mountain in Her eight-armed Mahishasura Mardini form, radiating a golden glow brighter than millions of suns. Lord Indra and all the Devas hailed Her as “Kanaka Durga,” and since then, She has been worshipped by that name. Indrakeeladri Hill is eternally blessed with her presence, ensuring the protection and prosperity of the people in the region.

Later, Lord Brahma received a sacred intuition that Lord Shiva should also reside here. He performed the ‘Sata Ashwamedha Yagna.’ Pleased by his devotion, Lord Shiva manifested as a Jyotirlinga on the mountain. For the first time, Brahma worshipped Him with jasmine flowers (mallika), earning Shiva the name “Mallikesha.”

In the Dwapara Yuga, Arjuna— one of the most celebrated heroes in the Hindu epic Mahabharata and the third of the five Pandava brothers (Yudhishthira, Bhima, Arjuna, Nakula, and Sahadeva) —performed intense penance on this hill to obtain the divine Pashupatastra weapon. The Mahabharata mentions Indrakeeladri as the site of his tapas. To test Arjuna’s courage, Shiva appeared as a Kirata (hunter). A fierce battle erupted over a wild boar. Impressed by Arjuna’s devotion and fearlessness, Shiva granted the weapon, and Mallikesha became known as “Mallikeshwara.”

In Kali Yuga, Jagadguru Sri Adi Shankaracharya found the Jyotirlinga neglected and nearly invisible. He reinstalled Malleswara Swamy to the north of Kanaka Durga Mata’s temple, placed the Sri Chakra, and established Vedic worship traditions—ending animal sacrifices forever.

Shakti reigns supreme on Indrakeeladri Hill. Kanaka Durga Mata Temple is among South India’s most visited shrines, especially during the vibrant nine-day Dasara (Navratri) festival in September–October, dedicated to the Devi. The temple dazzles at its peak, with the Goddess adorned in nine unique alankaras daily—the only temple worldwide where the main deity embodies all nine forms: Sri Saraswati, Sri Maha Lakshmi, Sri Bala Tripura Sundari, Sri Rajarajeswari, Sri Mahishasura Mardini, Sri Durga Devi, Sri Annapurna Devi, Sri Gayatri, and Sri Lalitha Tripura Sundari.

Festival highlights include breathtaking illuminations, special rituals, floral decorations, and cultural extravaganzas with traditional music and dance. The entire hill glows with thousands of lamps, radiating divine energy and drawing lakhs of pilgrims.

Practical info: The temple opens at 4 AM, with free general darshan. For quicker access with shorter queues, paid special darshan tickets start at ₹100. The Antaraalaya Darshan (inner sanctum entry) is ₹500, available 6 AM–3:30 PM and 6 PM–10 PM. Book online at the official site: https://kanakadurgamma.org

 

I took the early Tuesday morning darshan of Kanaka Durga Mata—not once, but thrice. Entering the inner complex at 5:45 AM, I expected long lines for general darshan. Instead, there was just one swift queue with 15–20 devotees. As my turn came to behold Her golden radiance, the queue halted—some ritual was underway in the inner sanctum. Time stood still as I connected deeply with Devi Mata. A female temple staffer guarding the line gave me a knowing smile when it resumed. It felt like the Goddess Herself had paused it for those sacred five minutes—just for me!

I exited the sanctum and returned to the entry gate, which was opened just for me—well, I was the only devotee at that moment for the 6 AM Antaraalaya Darshan! 😊 Once again, I stood before Devi Mata, this time even closer… inside the Garbha Griha (inner sanctum), enveloped in a profoundly spiritual atmosphere.

Even at 6:30 AM, the general darshan crowd remained moderate. Despite prominent signboards prohibiting photography throughout the temple premises, I noticed many families and pilgrims posing happily for photos with carefree joy.

I meditated for a while, then took darshan of the smiling, radiant-faced Goddess in Her mighty form—for the third time that morning.

The prasadam counter is on the ground floor near the elevator building. A pack of laddoo costs ₹20, and Pulihara (tamarind rice) is just ₹10. Until then, I’d never heard of—or tasted—Pulihara. It was warm, flavourful, and absolutely delicious—the perfect post-darshan treat!

On the short walk back to my hotel, I stopped at a beautiful small temple dedicated to Ganesh Ji. Minutes later, I realized it was right outside my hotel entrance—I simply hadn’t noticed it earlier in the excitement!

In the peaceful morning calm, I also soaked in the serene view of the Prakasam Barrage. The Krishna River, like the Godavari, originates in Maharashtra’s Western Ghats near the scenic hill station of Mahabaleshwar (Satara district), emerging from a sacred spring at the Krishnabai Temple. It flows eastward for over 1,400 km through Maharashtra, Karnataka, Telangana, and Andhra Pradesh—passing holy sites like Srisailam and Vijayawada—before merging into the Bay of Bengal via its fertile delta.

Vijayawada offers several wonderful sightseeing spots. The top one is Bhavani Island, a scenic river island on the Krishna directly opposite the Kanaka Durga Mata temple. After temple visits, families often head there for water and adventure sports, nature walks, and even stay options. It’s one of India’s largest river islands.

I had the whole day free until 6 or 7 PM for local exploration, including two highly revered temples dedicated to Narasimha Ji in Mangalagiri (~12 km away) and the ancient 4th–5th century rock-cut Undavalli Caves (~8 km away), famous for their beautiful Hindu deity sculptures.

But the previous night, at the hotel desk, I’d booked a tourist car for a full tour: Mangalagiri, Undavalli Caves, and Amaravati Shaivalayam—a very sacred Shiva temple in Amaravati. It was a popular but long itinerary (over 6 hours total). Not wanting to return too late, I planned an early start at 8:30 AM.

Before booking, I hadn’t even known about Amaravati Shaivalayam or its deep significance, so I initially thought of sticking to closer spots to save travel time. But the hotel desk clerk strongly recommended including it, quoting ₹2,500 for the car. Looking back, I’m incredibly glad I listened to him!

Amaravati Shaivalayam (Amareswara/Amaralingeswara Swamy Temple) opens from 6:00 AM–1:00 PM and 4:00 PM–8:00/8:30 PM. Since it closes earlier than the Mangalagiri temples, it became the first stop on the tour.

The tourist car arrived earlier than expected, so we set off ahead of schedule. Driving along the beautiful Prakasam Barrage, the gentle morning breeze carried soft chants of Kanaka Durga Mata from nearby loudspeakers. It felt like Devi Mata was accompanying me—caressing my soul with peace and blessings 🙂 🙂 🙂

Amaravati is being developed as Andhra Pradesh’s new capital city (after Hyderabad became the capital of Telangana, which was carved out in 2014). The present Chief Minister Chandrababu Naidu’s residence in Vijayawada is just a short distance from the Prakasam Barrage. Under his leadership since 2024, the Amaravati region is experiencing a massive revival—rapid construction of core infrastructure, housing, government buildings, roads, and more is underway, transforming it into a modern capital hub.

About 35 km from Vijayawada, the ancient and revered Amaravati Shivalayam (also known as Sri Amareswara Swamy Temple, Amaralingeswara Swamy Temple, or simply Amararama) sits on the southern banks of the Krishna River, near the historic Amaravati Buddhist stupa site.

This sacred temple is one of Andhra Pradesh’s five Pancharama Kshetras dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Legend has it that the Shivalinga here was installed by Lord Indra. The story unfolds like this…

In the fierce war between Kartikeya (Murugan/Skanda) and the demon Tarakasura, whenever Kartikeya struck the demon with his Shakti Vel weapon, Tarakasura’s body would instantly rejoin and regenerate with greater power. Lord Vishnu revealed the secret: Tarakasura wore a protective atma-lingam (Shiva Linga) around his neck, making him invincible unless it was destroyed.

To defeat him, Kartikeya shattered the lingam on Tarakasura’s neck with a fiery weapon. The broken pieces fell to the earth, and—following Vishnu’s guidance—Kartikeya and the Devatas immediately enshrined the fragments at five sacred spots to prevent them from rejoining. This finally ended the demon’s reign. Temples were built at these sites, and the five gods—Indra, Surya, Chandra, Maha Vishnu, and Kartikeya—installed the Pancha Rama Lingas and offered the first prayers. These Pancharama Kshetras remain vital pilgrimage destinations in Andhra Pradesh.

At Amararama, Lord Indra installed the lingam on the Krishna riverbank and performed the inaugural worship. Bala Chamundeshwari Mata is the presiding Shakti here.

Dating back over 2,000 years, the temple showcases classic Dravidian architecture: four-tiered gopurams surrounding the shrine, a vimana crowning the sanctum, and ancient walls inscribed with records from the Satavahana era (including the Kota chiefs of Amaravati) and the great Vijayanagara emperor Sri Krishnadevaraya.

 

View of the impressive gopuram…

There was no crowd at the temple complex, so I opted for the free general darshan. Stepping into the main temple, I was awestruck by the beautiful, ancient Shivlinga—radiating timeless divinity. Entry into the Garbha Griha (inner sanctum) was permitted, but it required a ₹100 darshan ticket.

A fellow pilgrim from Srisailam, dressed in cream-colored attire, seemed to sense my hesitation. He kindly suggested paying the priest directly for inner sanctum access instead of walking back to the entrance counter. After exchanging a few words in Telugu with the priest—who looked pleased to help—the kind stranger facilitated it all. I was deeply touched by this simple act of devotion and helpfulness from a stranger on the path.

The temple’s inner sanctum was pleasantly cool and air-conditioned—perfectly suited to protect the unique 15-foot-tall white marble Shivalinga, which was so exquisitely beautiful that it held me spellbound. I couldn’t move from my spot!

Image credit: Online

The lingam is so tall that priests must climb a pedestal platform to perform the daily rituals and abhishekam. These traditions have continued unbroken since ancient times, preserving the sanctity and continuity of worship.

The calm, peaceful atmosphere of the temple complex was immensely soothing to the senses. It houses shrines dedicated to other Hindu deities as well. I purchased laddoos and Pulihara as prasadam—still savouring the tangy delight of the tamarind rice from earlier!

Outside, a flight of steps led down to the Krishna River, where devotees can take a holy dip for purification.

On the return drive, we passed the recently expanded Sri Venkateswara Swamy Temple complex in Venkatapalem, Amaravati. The presiding deity here is Sri Venkateswara Swamy (Lord Vishnu). For those who haven’t visited the country’s richest and most famous temple—the Sri Venkateswara Swamy Temple in Tirupati—this Amaravati shrine offers the same divine blessings. (The expansion work, including a grand maha gopuram and other facilities, received its foundation stone in late 2025 as part of a major ₹260 crore project to elevate it into a prominent spiritual landmark.)

A bit further along, we drove past a large building complex owned by a well-known fitness specialist. My driver explained that it’s hugely popular for body makeovers, with a diet and training program that guarantees results—participants often return home transformed from obese to slim and fit.

My next stop was Mangalagiri in Guntur district. The Mangalagiri Temples (commonly known as the Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy Temple complex, including the famous Panakala Narasimha Swamy) are among Andhra Pradesh’s most revered spiritual sites, dedicated to Lord Narasimha—the fierce man-lion avatar of Lord Vishnu.

In Telugu, “Mangalagiri” translates to “The Auspicious Hill” (Mangala = auspicious, Giri = hill). It was earlier known as Thotadri, and during the Vijayanagara Kingdom, as Mangala Nilayam.

Tuesdays are specially dedicated to warrior deities like Hanuman Ji, Narasimha Ji, and Ganesh Ji in Maharashtra and South India (while North Indians worship Ganesh Ji on Wednesdays). So, visiting Sri Narasimha Swamy on His auspicious day felt especially blessed! 🙂

Mangalagiri is one of the eight important Maha Kshetrams in India—sacred places where Lord Vishnu manifested Himself—and also one of the Pancha (five) Narasimha Kshetras.

The temple complex traces its origins to ancient times, referenced in Puranas like the Brahma Vaivarta Purana. It was patronized by Vijayanagara kings, with inscriptions recording Krishnadevaraya’s visit. The 11-day Brahmotsavam festival (held in February–March around Phalguna Shashti/Purnima) draws lakhs of devotees with grand processions, rituals, and celebrations.

Mangalagiri Hill resembles a kneeling elephant from certain angles, adding to its mystical charm. The complex features three interconnected Narasimha Swamy temples at different elevations, creating a unique pilgrimage path that ascends the auspicious hill.

• Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy Temple (at the foot of the hill): This is the main and most visited temple. The presiding deity is Sri Narasimha Swamy with His consort Sri Lakshmi Mata.
• Panakala Narasimha Swamy Temple (midway up the hill): It draws huge crowds for the famous miracle of the “panakala” (jaggery water) drinking deity. Devotees offer panakam (a sweet jaggery-water mixture with cardamom and ginger), and the Lord is believed to consume exactly half through His open mouth (with a gurgling sound), while the rest flows out as prasadam— a timeless wonder that leaves pilgrims in awe.
• Gandala Narasimha Swamy Temple (at the top of the hill): A small, symbolic shrine with no physical murti (idol), but it offers breathtaking panoramic views of the town, the Krishna River, and the surrounding landscape.

I originally planned my Vijayawada trip solely for the Sri Kanaka Durga Mata temple. Online recommendations mentioned Mangalagiri as a nearby highlight with its Narasimha temples, but it was only while drafting this post that I discovered Mangalagiri is a major South Indian pilgrimage site—one of the eight sacred Maha Kshetrams where Lord Vishnu manifested (and part of the Pancha Narasimha Kshetras). Its uniqueness truly sank in then!

The star attraction of the Dravidian-style architecture at the foothill Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy Temple is the towering Raja Gopuram (also called Thoorpu Gali Gopuram or East Gopuram). It’s awe-inspiring up close and visible from miles away—standing 153 feet (47 meters) tall and 49 feet wide, making it one of the tallest gopurams in Andhra Pradesh (and uniquely slender, enhancing its grandeur among South Indian temples).

The iconic 11-storied Raja Gopuram on the eastern entrance…

This stupendous structure was expanded between 1807–1809 by Raja Vasireddy Venkatadri Nayudu (a devout ruler from Amaravati), though its base (three storeys) dates to the Vijayanagara period (with contributions from Krishnadevaraya’s era). On the advice of Kanchipuram architects, an inverted gopuram-shaped water tank—153 feet deep—was constructed in 1912 opposite the tower to counterbalance a slight lean caused by gravitational pull, ingeniously stabilizing it.

The other three gopurams include:

• Uttara Gali Gopuram (North): Built in 1911 and opened only on the highly auspicious Vaikuntha Ekadashi day.
• Padamati Gali Gopuram (West): Construction halted after a tragic accident (workers died from falling stones), leaving it incomplete.
• Dakshina Gali Gopuram (South): Renovated in 1992.

Being a Tuesday— the day dedicated to the worship of Narasimha Ji—the temple complex was bustling with devotees.

Facing the entrance to the Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy sanctum stood a large stone statue of Garuda (the eagle vehicle of Lord Vishnu). Temples dedicated to Lord Shiva feature Nandi the bull facing the sanctum entrance—a beautiful reminder of each deity’s vahana.

In the Garbha Griha, the lion-man form of Sri Narasimha Swamy towers majestically over the smaller figure of Devi Lakshmi, both shimmering under layers of gold. Their grand, exuberant radiance and divine energy completely overwhelmed me—I felt enveloped in pure bliss! 🙂

To the north of the main temple lies a shrine dedicated to Devi Rajyalakshmi. To the south is a temple of Sri Rama Ji with Devi Sita and Lakshmana Ji. To the west stands the Vahana Shala—a storeroom for the temple’s rathas (festival chariots), including an ancient one adorned with intricate wooden carvings depicting scenes from the epics. The complex also houses rare antiquities of special significance and historical value.

After darshan of the mesmerizing Sri Rajyalakshmi, I returned to the beautiful main temple once more. An ancient legend holds that the image of Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Swamy was founded by Yudhishthira, the eldest Pandava brother from the Mahabharata. I was eager for another darshan of Sri Rajyalakshmi, but the queue was long and slow-moving, so I let it be.

Temple timings are 5:00 AM–12:30/1:00 PM and 4:00 PM–8:30 PM. I’d read about an Annadanam (free meal) service at 12 PM, but when I asked at the prasadam counter, they clarified it wasn’t available—the temple simply closes around 12:30/1:00 PM for the afternoon break.

From the hillside temple of Sri Panakala Narasimha Swamy, the slender yet towering gopuram of the lower temple dominates the landscape…

 

Video: View of Andhra Pradesh’s tallest gopuram

The hillside Sri Panakala Narasimha Swamy temple is accessible on foot via about 600 steps or by ghat road (suitable for vehicles, including autorickshaws). The steps were built in 1890, while the ghat road was constructed in 2004.

The official temple website https://panakalanarasimhaswamy.org highlights historical visits by prominent figures: Jagadguru Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century, Sri Krishna Chaitanya Mahaprabhu in 1512 AD, and 16th-century Vijayanagara Emperor Sri Krishnadevaraya, who made significant contributions. On the right side of the steps, there’s a stone inscription from Krishnadevaraya, and a bit further up, the footprints of Mahaprabhu Chaitanya are preserved.

This ancient shrine features the self-manifested (Swayambhu) presiding deity, Sri Panakala Narasimha Swamy—an ughra (fierce) form appearing only as a wide-open mouth (about 15 cm across). The mouth is covered by a metal image of the Lord.

The divine miracle of the panakam offering is unique to Mangalagiri. Devotees pour panakam into the visible mouth using a conch. A gurgling sound echoes as though the Lord is drinking it—exactly half is consumed, the sound stops, and the remaining half flows back out as prasadam. This happens repeatedly throughout the day whenever offerings are made. Astonishingly, no ants or flies gather near the temple despite the sweetness!

The legend goes like this…

In the Krita Yuga, Lord Vishnu manifested a fierce form to slay a demon Namuchi, who had been harassing the gods. Granted a boon that nothing wet or dry could kill him, the demon was ultimately destroyed when the Lord used the fire of His exhalation to consume the demon’s pranavayu (life breath). The blood from the slain asura flowed down and formed a pool at the foothill of Mangalagiri. The Lord, still in His raging form, remained on the hill.

The Devatas themselves could not withstand the burning fury of the Lord after He slayed the demon, so they prayed fervently for His appeasement. The Lord then took amrita (nectar) and cooled down.

In each Yuga, the Lord accepts different offerings to pacify His ughra energy:

• Pure ghee in Treta Yuga,
• Cow milk in Dwapara Yuga,
• Panakam (jaggery water) in Kali Yuga.

Hence in our current Kali Yuga age, panakam being the primary offering, the Lord is called as Sri Panakala Narasimha Swamy.

It’s also popularly believed that Mangalagiri Hill was once a volcano, and the sugar or jaggery in panakam neutralizes the sulphur compounds, preventing any eruption—a beautiful blend of faith and local lore.

The Panakala Narasimha Swamy temple opens at 7 AM for darshan and panakam offerings until 3:30 PM. It closes at 4 PM, as tradition holds that gods and sages worship the Lord in the evenings.

During my visit, the queue was long under the midday heat. To save time and find some relief, I bought a ₹100 quick darshan ticket—it significantly shortened the wait, though a special darshan was underway, causing the line to pause at times.

I took darshan of the deity and visited the temple of Sri Lakshmi. Legend says that in ancient times, a cave tunnel nearby connected to the Undavalli Caves on the Krishna River banks, where rishis (sages) would go for holy baths.

Mangalagiri town is synonymous with its beautiful handloom cotton sarees and textiles, famous across India and exported worldwide. Throughout the drive from Vijayawada, I’d seen vast stretches of land blooming with cotton fields. I stopped at a factory showroom recommended by the driver and bought some lovely dress materials—lightweight, elegant, and perfect for everyday wear.

A few kilometers from Vijayawada lies the ancient seaport of Machilipatnam, renowned for its Kalamkari fabrics—a dyed and hand-painted textile art form with roots stretching back centuries. The Dutch (along with English and French traders) actively traded here in the 17th century, exporting these intricate block-printed and natural-dyed textiles.

Almost 20 years ago, I worked in the merchandising department at Burlingtons’ Agencies, then the leading buying house for top European department stores. Their exporters’ list included prominent names—like Robert Vadra (Priyanka Gandhi’s husband at the time), who was a jewellery exporter during their dating days. My time there deepened my knowledge of Indian home textiles, art, embroidery, hard goods, and accessories through the stunning samples exporters sent for sales inquiries. I developed good rapport with nearly all the exporters, especially the Kalamkari specialists from Machilipatnam, whose intricate hand-painted textiles always stood out in the sample shipments.

Read: Nothing is Impossible   

The family group included an export house, garment manufacturing factory, and retail stores in Mumbai’s luxury hotels. Otto Burlingtons’ was famous as the country’s first (and only) mail-order shopping catalogue, based in New Delhi. For a while, until the collaboration with German partner Otto ended and it closed, I managed the Mumbai operations. Those years taught me so much about Indian textiles and their rich history—even before brands like Fab India rose to prominence. Back then, I had a dream 🙂

Read: My attempts to become an entrepreneur

After Mangalagiri, I headed to Undavalli Caves.

 

Video: Undavalli Caves

These ancient rock-cut caves are just a short drive from Prakasam Barrage, carved into the northern slope of a sandstone hill overlooking the Krishna River.

The four-storey cave structure is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), with the earliest sections dating back to around the 4th–6th centuries AD.

The ground floor features pillared halls with Buddhist or Jain architectural echoes. The first and second floor have intricate sculptures and carvings of Hindu devtas (deities) and rishis (sages).

 

The second floor left me completely spellbound! The principal deity of the cave complex is the magnificent Anantasayana Vishnu—Lord Vishnu reclining on the serpent bed of Sheshanaga. 🙂 🙂 🙂

Anantasayana Vishnu Ji…

Anantasayana Vishnu is my absolute favourite! 😊 I’ve seen the Lord in this serene pose at many ancient South Indian temples—like those in Trichy and Thiruvananthapuram—and even at the Udaigiri Caves near Sanchi in Madhya Pradesh.

Read: Amazing Madhya Pradesh (Part V):  Sanchi Stupa and Udayagiri Caves

Yours truly with the massive 5-meter-long reclining statue of Vishnu Ji on Shesh Naga, carved from a single granite block! 🙂 🙂 🙂

Video: Monolithic statue of Lord Vishnu and elaborate carvings

Video: Anantasayana Vishnu Ji

I was thrilled by this beautiful surprise—it felt like a divine gift after the morning’s temple visits!

Back at my hotel, I enjoyed a late lunch of Pulihara and laddoos from Amaravati Shaivalayam—absolutely yum! 🙂 Later, I set out to buy a new lock for my suitcase. Locals directed me to shops in the inner lanes around the hotel, leading me on a delightful wander through the colourful marketplace (one of my favourite things!). I got the lock… and so much visual delight along the way. 🙂

Video: Marketplace in Vijayawada

When I emerged on the main road, I realized I was exactly where I wanted to be—right at the base of Indrakeeladri Hill below the temple. Besides the morning pedestrian entrance, there’s a vehicle route to the top (autorickshaws aren’t allowed). The walk up and back would have taken 3–4 hours—long and lonely—so I’d dropped my plan to catch the sunset view of Prakasam Barrage from the hilltop, where the glowing ॐ shines at night.

Now that I was here, I asked autorickshaw drivers nearby for alternatives. They pointed to a bus! Imagine my joy—a bus was waiting right across the road! 🙂 I dashed over; it was packed, but locals explained that free buses ply up and down the hill regularly.

I finally fulfilled my heart’s desire: enjoying the sunset from atop, capturing photos and videos of Prakasam Barrage, the panoramic city views, and the board displaying the most sacred syllable in Hindu Dharma! 🙂

Video: Splendid view of the Krishna River near Prakasam Barrage

Prakasam Barrage is a major irrigation project, watering over 12 lakh acres in the Krishna Delta. Beyond its role as a busy road bridge, it’s a popular pedestrian walkway—perfect for evening strolls, photography, or simply soaking in the cool river breeze.

It replaced the mid-19th-century Krishna Anicut (built 1852–1855 by British engineers, including Sir Arthur Cotton, to irrigate the delta). Severely damaged in 1952 floods, the modern barrage was constructed between 1954 and 1957 at a cost of about ₹2.278 crores and named after Tanguturi Prakasam, Andhra Pradesh’s first Chief Minister.

The barrage is especially enchanting under night illumination—but there was still time for that.

Standing on the hilltop in the cool evening breeze, watching the sunset over the Krishna with continuous sacred chants hailing the Goddess, I felt immense bliss. 🙂 The magic of Kanaka Durga Mata temple makes it one of Andhra Pradesh’s most significant shrines.

Video: View of the Krishna River 

Local devotees filled the place in the evening. Many women stepping out of private cars were elegantly dressed in gold-embroidered sarees—quite different from the simple pilgrims of the early morning.

Before my trip, I’d read that just a few months earlier (August 2025), the temple reimposed a strict mobile phone ban—even for VIP devotees and employees—inside the sanctum, along with a mandatory traditional dress code. Western wear is forbidden: women must wear sarees, salwar kameez with dupatta, or other traditional attire; men need dhotis/lungis with kurtas or similar. In the morning, I’d noticed even temple staff in dress code—plain blue sarees for women, white traditional wear for men.

I’d worn traditional salwar kurta with dupatta in the morning and planned the same for evening Annadanam (free temple meal). But for the market visit, I’d changed into long pants and a long-sleeved top. Unsure if I’d be allowed in “Western” attire, I chatted with a temple employee. Understanding my predicament, he suggested buying a dupatta from the only shop nearby selling sarees. They didn’t have dupattas, but the girl (speaking only Telugu) understood I needed something to cover up. A knotted piece of cloth used for bundling sarees lay around—she let me take it (it was closing time). When I insisted on returning it later, she pointed to another shop.

Delighted with this bit of luck, I pushed my fortune further: I deposited my footwear but switched off my phone instead of handing it over (I’d seen people carrying phones inside in the morning). No strict check then—perhaps due to the early hour. This time, nearing the gate, I saw a female staff with a security scanner. I was the only one approaching, but just in time, a woman joined from behind. The staff asked her for her phone as I slipped by. Close call! 🙂 Once again, I felt Devi Mata’s protective warmth around me. 🙂

The general darshan queue moved quickly—I got darshan of Devi Mata in 15-20 minutes. With Annadanam starting at 7 PM, I had nearly two hours.

In the morning, I’d only visited the main shrine—I hadn’t even seen the golden vimana up close or known about the other shrines in the complex. Honestly, the evening visit felt entirely guided by the Goddess! I explored the adjacent Malleswara Swamy (Lord Shiva) temple and all the other shrines, taking darshan of every deity. With time still left, I sat on the cool marble floor and meditated peacefully until meal time.

The Annadanam menu was simple yet divine: steamed rice, pumpkin kadhi, brinjal curry, curd rice, and buttermilk. I usually dislike brinjal, but the small portion I took tasted incredibly delicious—like everything else! The local Guntur chilli makes Andhra cuisine so spicy and flavourful. The two curries were the most sublime dishes I’ve ever had of brinjal and pumpkin. A simple meal far surpassing any fine-dining version!)

Back home, I tried my hand at making the two curries and Pulihara. Here’s my brinjal and pumpkin curry, less spicy but delicious 🙂

And my heavenly Pulihara 🙂

 

I dropped my donation in the hundi and took darshan of the golden Goddess for the fifth and final time. I’d planned to bid goodbye after Annadanam, but as I walked toward the exit, security directed me back to the entry queue. I knew my way, but I took it as an invitation from Devi Mata for one last visit! 🙂

While exiting, I paused at the beautiful Ganesha Ji shrine. Since morning, I’d wondered how some devotees defied the photography ban—posing for selfies near shrines and even photographing deities—without reprimand. When a female devotee in her late 20s or in 30s snapped a photo of Ganesha Ji right in front of the priest, he finally voiced outrage. She shamelessly defended herself! 🙂 I didn’t linger to see the outcome.

I returned the “dupatta” and spent some time enjoying the stunning illumination of Prakasam Barrage and the city views.

The glowing ॐ 🙂 🙂 🙂

After the downhill bus ride, I took an auto to nearby Besant Road—one of Vijayawada’s busiest commercial and entertainment hubs. I just wanted a quick glimpse of the city’s vibrant heart.

It was a brief tour—I needed to return early to bed. It was my last night in Vijayawada; I had a 6:30 AM bus to Srisailam the next day…

 

Next Post: Discovering Sacred Destinations in India – VII: Srisailam

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