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Devakooth: The Only Women-Performed Theyyam

With the onset of the Theyyam season-usually by the last week of October-the rhythm of everyday life in northernmost Kerala begins to transform. Nights grow sleepless, with one Theyyam or another unfolding in the immediate neighbourhood or a nearby village. The steady drumbeats, ritual chants, bursts of firecrackers, stalls selling toys and balloons, and makeshift sweet vendors all come together in a spectacle that is loud, blindingly colourful, vibrant, and impossible to ignore.

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For those of us born and raised in the Kannur and Kasaragod districts of North Kerala, Theyyam is not merely a performance; it is a feeling-an inseparable part of childhood memory and collective identity. I was no different.

Looking back, more than a decade ago, I chose to step away from a comfortable career in the IT industry and return to my home village. What brought me back, I believe, was the strong pull of Theyyam and the deep human and cultural connections rooted in this land.

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Even today, Theyyam never ceases to surprise me-with its hundreds of distinct forms and stories, its diverse natural settings, and the multitude of unique rituals that accompany each manifestation. During the Theyyam season (from October to May), thousands of events take place across the region. Numerous gods and goddesses are invoked-many of them female divinities who once raised their voices against male-dominated and upper-caste social structures. Yet, with the exception of a single Theyyam performed during one specific event, all other Theyyams are traditionally enacted by men.

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After years of waiting for the right opportunity, I finally had the chance to experience this rare and powerful ritual-Devakooth, the only Theyyam performed by women-last week. There was something profoundly distinctive about the drumming, the music, the rhythm of the steps, the movement of the performer, and the overall ambience of the space. It is not something that can be fully described; it must be experienced.

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I feel deeply grateful that with every passing season, I am able to add yet another unique Theyyam experience to my journey.

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Wishing you all a very happy, peaceful, and fulfilling New Year!

Kerala

Conservation Stories

Guardians of the Tides: A Personal Journey Through Kannur’s Living Mangrove Heritage

As I rowed gently through the narrow tidal creeks of Kannur, the landscape unfolded before me—tangled mangrove roots cradling the banks, sunlight dancing through the dense canopy, and the calls of distant waterbirds echoing across the stillness. To a casual observer, it may appear as just another patch of wild green. But I’ve come to realize that beneath this calm exterior lies a remarkable story—one of resistance, revival, and the quiet strength of community-led conservation.

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Over the years, as I’ve explored and introduced this region to people from around the world, I’ve come to appreciate how deeply human stories are interwoven with natural ones. In Kannur, where Kerala’s mangrove cover is most extensive, I had the privilege of witnessing a conservation movement that’s both deeply inspiring and rooted in local commitment. Two organizations in particular—SEEK and the Wildlife Trust of India—have been at the heart of this transformation, turning degraded and endangered mangrove areas into thriving ecosystems.

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What makes this place even more special is its legacy. Kannur is the home of Kallen Pokkudan, Kerala’s beloved “Mangrove Man.” His pioneering efforts in raising awareness and planting mangroves live on through the work of organizations like SEEK (Society for Environmental Education in Kerala). SEEK, one of the earliest environmental movements in the state, has gone far beyond education. In a bold and visionary move, they began purchasing privately owned mangrove lands—areas threatened by real estate development, aquaculture, and construction—and turned them into protected green spaces.

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Some of these degraded zones have regenerated naturally; others have been painstakingly restored through active planting of native mangrove species. Today, they are living proof of what long-term vision and grassroots action can achieve.

Close by, another remarkable initiative is unfolding. The Wildlife Trust of India (WTI), a national conservation organization, has been working in Kannur through the Kannur Kandal Project. Their focus, like SEEK’s, blends conservation with education and empowerment. I’ve had the chance to visit their demonstration centre near Payyanur, where they run awareness programs and community outreach, especially among students and local youth. But their work doesn’t stop there—they, too, have acquired vulnerable mangrove patches and transformed them into flourishing corridors of life.

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What moved me most is how these places have become outdoor classrooms, where learning happens through direct experience. I’ve walked muddy trails with local naturalists, glided silently in rowboats and kayaks alongside activists, and listened to stories of forgotten creeks rediscovered and birds returning after years of absence.

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These encounters—up close with mudskippers, kingfishers, and the fragile seedlings of the next mangrove generation—are memorable. But it’s the people behind the work who leave the deepest impact: scientists, teachers, local leaders, and volunteers who’ve dedicated their lives to protecting these ecosystems. Their stories are not just informative; they’re profoundly human.

In a world where environmental despair often feels overwhelming, the work happening in Kannur offers a rare and powerful alternative—one that speaks of resilience, regeneration, and quiet hope. Personally, this journey has deepened my connection to this land and its people. It’s reminded me that meaningful travel isn’t just about discovering new places—it’s about understanding the delicate threads that connect us all.

Every time I return to these mangroves, I’m reminded that change is possible—not through grand gestures, but through patient, persistent care. And I feel honoured to be able to share this ongoing story with others, one seedling, one conversation, and one journey at a time.

Community Based Tourism, Kerala, Photography

Reviving Traditions, Rebuilding Pride

Community-based sustainable tourism has taught me one of the most profound lessons of my life: that travel, when rooted in respect and collaboration, has the power to revive not just economies, but entire cultural legacies.

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Over the years, working closely with communities across Kerala—especially indigenous ones—I’ve had the privilege of witnessing this quiet but powerful transformation. One of the most meaningful impacts I’ve seen is the revival of traditional artforms that were on the verge of disappearing. This kind of cultural resurgence doesn’t just happen on its own. It takes time, trust, and an honest commitment to understanding what a community values most.

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Whenever I’ve been involved in developing a tourism experience—whether it’s centered around culture, craft, livelihoods, or the natural environment—I’ve always begun by listening. I spend time in the community, talking to elders, observing, and trying to understand the subtle textures of their identity: the customs they hold dear, the taboos they observe, and the traditions that may have slipped quietly through the cracks of modernity.

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One such experience that left a deep impression on me unfolded in the forest-fringed village of Kallar, at the foothills of Ponmudi in Thiruvananthapuram district. Kallar is home to the Kani community, whose wisdom and connection to the land are truly inspiring. As I spent time there, I learned about two traditional artforms—Chonamkali and Kambadavukali—that had not been performed in years. In fact, many young people in the community had never even heard of them.

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Curious and hopeful, I began conversations with the elders to see if they would be interested in bringing these artforms back. To my delight, they responded with warmth and genuine interest. We started small. A few informal performances were held in familiar spaces, with just a handful of trusted friends in attendance. These early steps helped build confidence and ease.

Encouraged by the positive energy, we gradually invited small, thoughtful groups of travelers—women’s travel collectives, older travelers, people who cared deeply about culture. The response was beautiful. Visitors were deeply moved, and the modest financial support the performers received reinforced the value of what they were doing.

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But what truly moved me was seeing the reaction of the younger generation. Some of them, watching their heritage come alive for the very first time, were visibly awestruck. A few even asked how they could learn the songs and steps. That was the moment I knew something special was happening.

In just a few months, not one but three traditional artforms were brought back to life in Kallar. These weren’t just staged for tourists—they became part of community life again, performed at local gatherings and festivals. What started as a gentle effort to preserve heritage became a powerful source of pride and even livelihood.

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That journey in Kallar reminded me why I do this work. When tourism is approached with care and sincerity, it becomes much more than a journey from one place to another. It becomes a celebration of identity. A chance to reconnect with stories that deserve to be told—not just for visitors, but for the community itself.

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Today, I continue to seek out and support such efforts—small acts of cultural revival that quietly restore pride, belonging, and joy. And each time I watch a forgotten song echo through a forest village or see a child discover a dance once performed by their grandparents, I’m reminded of just how powerful thoughtful tourism can be.

Kerala, Photography

A Bow, a Photograph, and the Kindness of Strangers

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I’ve always believed that the true magic of community-based tourism lies in the unexpected. It’s not just the places we go—it’s the moments we never planned for, the stories that quietly unfold, and the human connections that make them unforgettable.

For the past several years, I’ve had the privilege of working alongside various communities across Kerala—particularly indigenous communities whose traditions, resilience, and cultural wisdom continue to teach me something new every day.

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A few years ago, we hosted a group of university students from Australia as part of our experiential learning programme. One of the highlights of their time in Kerala was an interaction we organized in Wayanad with Govindan Ashan, a respected elder from the Mullu Kuruma community—a people once known as expert forest dwellers and skilled hunters, masters of the bow and arrow.

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Ashan himself is an exceptional archer. His skill is no longer used in the forests but passed on through coaching and mentorship. Many of his family members—his children and grandchildren—are national-level archery medalists. His humble courtyard is both a training ground and a community space, where young people learn not only technique but also pride in their heritage.

But Govindan Ashan, a gentle soul, is deeply connected with the natural world in ways that go beyond archery. Every morning, he feeds hundreds of birds—parakeets, mynas, bulbuls—wild birds who trust him enough to come daily. A once-hunter turned bird-feeder. The irony isn’t lost on anyone, but in his eyes, it’s not irony—it’s transformation.

During the students’ visit, they got to try their hand at archery under his guidance. More than just a fun activity, it became a moment of cultural exchange—a chance to appreciate the focus, discipline, and ancestral knowledge behind the craft. Ashan also shared stories from his life—his memories, his love for animals, and his strong belief in conservation.

And then something unexpected happened.

Just as we were wrapping up, one of the faculty members from the student group noticed an old, faded black-and-white photo inside Ashan’s modest home. It showed a Kuruma warrior with a bow, flanked by a loyal-looking dog. She paused in front of it, clearly moved. “I’ve seen this before,” she said, but couldn’t remember where.

Ashan quietly told her, “That’s the only photo I have of my father. He passed away when I was very young.”

The group returned to Australia soon after, but a few weeks later, I received an email from the same faculty member. She had remembered. The photo was from a collection she had come across in a library—part of an old archive of India, documenting indigenous communities and forest tribes. There were more photos—not just of Ashan’s father, but of other members of the Kuruma community too.

She scanned them and sent them to us.

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When we printed them and travelled back to Wayanad to show Ashan, the look on his face said everything. He held the photos with a quiet reverence, touching each one as if it carried a whisper from the past. He thanked us—and her—for bringing his father back to him in a way he never thought possible.

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It was a small act. A simple gesture. But it reminded me that community-based tourism is not just about financial support or sustainable practices. It’s about reconnection, about unseen doors opening when people meet with respect, curiosity, and kindness.

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We went there expecting to teach students about indigenous archery. Instead, we all learned something far deeper—about heritage, memory, and the unexpected gifts that come when tourism becomes a platform for genuine cultural exchange.

For me, that day wasn’t just a highlight of our programme. It was a quiet reminder of why I do this work. Because when we allow learning to flow both ways—when we listen as much as we share—community tourism transforms into something far more powerful. It becomes a space where stories are remembered, identities are honoured, and sometimes, long-lost pieces of the past find their way home.

Kerala, Photography

It’s Selfie Time…

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Exams are over and just before the summer vacation starts it’s celebration time…

Most schools in Kerala (a South Indian state) hold their annual day celebrations in the last couple of days of March.

I was at my son’s school yesterday for the annual day celebrations and saw this cute little girl in an Oppana (a traditional dance form performed by the Muslim community) costume right after her stage performance.

Her family was happily taking a selfie with her, and her little brother was curious too.

Kerala is a small state in the southwest corner of the Indian landmass with a very interesting demography. A considerable percentage of Hindus, Muslims, and Christians live in harmony and celebrate all major festivals together.

As my kids celebrate their summer vacation, I am about to start my trekking trip to the Himalayas. See you all in a while! 🙂

Photography

Thank You 2024…

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“It’s hard to let 2024 disappear into thin air in just a few hours…

It has been an amazing year for me—scaling new peaks (literally) and taking bold steps in both my career and life.

I am not a believer in pure destiny, and I firmly believe that positive results are always the outcome of hard work.

Let me wish all my friends here in the blogosphere a very Happy, Peaceful and Successful New Year, 2025 🙂

Kerala, Photography

The Journey…

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Life has been tough for the millions of small farmers across the country…

Sir Malcolm Darling, a famous British researcher and writer once wrote “the Indian farmers were born in debt lived in debt and died in debt”.

As I travel through the length and breadth of my state, Kerala, I could experience the hard ‘Life’s Journey’ followed by the local communities, especially farmers…

Climate change has made things even worse for them.

Amidst all these, their life goes on and we are amazed by their resilience…

Photography

Standing Tall…

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Akhrotghetta Campsite on Kuari Pass Trekking Trail…

It was my first trekking expedition with outdoor camping, the Kuari Pass Trail in the Himalayas. On the first day of trek, after 3-4 kms of hiking we reached our first campsite and there stood a giant Walnut Tree (Akhrot stands for Walnut in Hindi language) as a symbol of care and comfort.

In India, you can find many places named after trees and throughout our trek, the local guides shared many stories connecting trees and the life of villagers.

It was my second trip to the Himalayas and after just three months, I have started planning my next trek. Himalayas is like a magnet, once you experienced it, it’s a lifelong connection.