The plan was to cycle from Stockholm to Austria in summer 2021. Unfortunately, this plan did not materialize.
As some might know, my love for bicycle touring has gotten really strong since my retirement in 2018. A few weeks after moving from Graz to Stockholm in December 2018 I started buying touring equipment for a bicycle tour to North Cape. I started this tour in early summer 2019, and quickly was forced to overcome all my anxieties like sleeping alone in a tent in the forest, cooking food on a little gas stove, or camping with freezing temperatures and sometimes even with snow.
After having successfully completed this tour I proudly told many of my friends in Austria about my recent adventures. Funnily, some of them, with a shrug of their shoulders, just smiled and did not seem to see a big deal in bicycling to North Cape. I soon found out why: Apparently due to their lack of geographical knowledge, they assumed that the North Cape was just a couple of hundred kilometers north of Stockholm. Not a big deal, they thought; everyone can do this from Stockholm. But what about bicycling from Graz to Stockholm? Even when I told them, that the distance from Graz to Stockholm was about the same as from Stockholm to North Cape, they seemed to stay unimpressed about my North-Cape tales.
Based on this impression, I started thinking of bicycling from Stockholm to Graz in the summer of 2020. However, this plan did not materialize, as life for all of us developed very differently due to the pandemic. I was forced to change my plans and enjoyed bicycling for several weeks within the Swedish borders. At the same time, my desire to bicycle back to my old home in Austria stayed vividly; it got even stronger, it seemed.
With all the equipment for bicycle touring in my possession, and with having gotten two shots of Covid vaccination, I started my tour to Austria by end of June 2021. My girlfriend also got hooked to bicycle touring in the previous summer. Thus, she happily joined me for a couple of weeks.
The first leg: Stockholm to Gothenburg
The first leg of the tour led from Stockholm to Gothenburg. We did not take the shortest route, but rather followed the Göta kanal from Mem all the way to its end in Sjötorp on lake Vänern. We started by taking the local train from Stockholm to Gnesta to avoid some not so pleasant city bicycling. From Gnesta we toured to Nyköping, then over Bråviken all the way to Mem, the starting point of the Göta kanal.
The Göta kanal was built over 200 years ago. With its length of 190 kilometers and its 58 locks it opens a water way between the Baltic Sea in the east of Sweden and Lake Vänern. From Lake Vänern, boats can use the river named Göta Älv all the way to Gothenburg, from where one can sail through Skagerrak to the North Sea.
Bicycling along the Göta kanal was a pleasant experience. The weather was excellent and the sights were fantastic: all the boats on the canal and everywhere happy people in holiday mood. With all the bends of the canal and the trees along its banks one cannot avoid to get happy.
See a short film here: Bicycling from Stockholm to Gothenburg, Sweden (Part 1)
Here is a link to part 2 of the video of this trip.
When we reached Motala on lake Vättern, we had to choose whether to wait for the ferry boat or to bicycle around the lake. Since waiting would have taken as much time es going around, we chose to cycle. This brought us first to Askersund on the north of Lake Vättern. From there we cycled through Tiveden, the wild area between the two big lakes Vättern and Vänern. With its 5500 square kilometers, Lake Vänern is the second largest natural lake of Europe; it is ten times as large as Bodensee (between Germany, Switzerland and Austria), for instance.
Our route led us south of Lake Vänern through the lovely towns of Mariestad, Lidköping, and Vänersborg. From there we only had to follow the Göta Älv all the way to Gothenburg. The length of this first leg of my bicycle touring in 2021 was 770 kilometers.
Before continuing my trip towards Austria, we took the train back to Stockholm for other holiday business.
The second leg: Sundsvall to Tierp
Since my girlfriend still had some time of her summer holidays left, we took the train north to Sundsvall, a town lying some 400 kilometers north of Stockholm on the Baltic Sea. Since only local trains allowed bicycles on board, we needed to change trains in Uppsala, Gävle, and Hudiksvall. From there we cycled south back towards Stockholm. Due to lack of time, we skipped the last piece from Tierp to Uppsala.
The third leg: From Gothenburg to somewhere on the German-Polish border.
Here is the film: Kattegattleden und Sydkustleden: Mit dem Fahrrad entlang Schwedens Westküste
In the middle of nowhere I had my first flat tyre after bicycling more than 10.000 kilometers with my Kona Sutra, version 2018. Unfortunately, this happened during heavy rainfall. I got off the bike and started pushing it, trying to find out how to fix it in the most economical manner. In my mind, I walked through all the details to be done: Get out the tools without getting too much water into my bags; put the bags nicely on the narrow shoulder of the road, and all the rest. While in this technical trance, my eyes suddenly spotted something like bus stop on the horizon. After another ten minutes, I was nicely sitting in a glass covered bus stop shelter. Fixing the flat tyre was never more pleasant before.
Due to the rainy weather, I always stayed at “vandrarhems”, the Swedish word for hostels. The summer season was over, thus it was easy to get vacant rooms. Five days of bicycling took me all the way to Trelleborg in the south of Sweden. From Trelleborg I took the ferry to Świnoujście in Poland. Next I followed the Oder-Neiße bicycle trail along the German-Polish border.
My tour came to a sudden stop when very sad news about my younger brother Wolfgang reached me in the middle of Germany.
Due to a strike of Deutsche-Bahn workers, I could not take the next train right away. Instead, I had to rent a car and drove all the way to Munich, where I found a local train to Salzburg and on to Graz on the following day.
For my return trip from Austria to Sweden, I decided to take trains, too. This trip took me two and a half days and costed 450 Euros — one way ticket. Compared with a flight — 6 hours and maybe 250 Euros (for a return trip), a “luxury”.
The map below shows my bicycle tours during summer of 2021.


