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terrain
inspirations, ideas and commentary on landscapes – physical, mental and spiritual
alyscamp
May 24, 2025

At the Alyscamp in Arles to see ‘à l’écart’ or ‘on the edge’, an exhibition of the site-specific work of Florence Grundeler.
A little history of the Alyscamp (or Elysian fields or Champs-Élysées) was a fossilised river which became the site for a necropolis – ‘a shifting terrain where the living escort the dead through memory, dreams and toil’ (Anne Louyot – curator); It was a large elaborate cemetery sometimes named as ‘city of the dead’ implying a burial site with distinctive architecture and often situated away from a main city/outside the city walls and, in this case, the final segment of the Aurelian way. So, a burial ground for the rich as bodies were transported down the Rhine to Arles from all over Europe. The boatmen became wealthy accordingly.


In this exhibition, Florence Grundeler’s work has emanated from her concern revealing ‘the hinges and gaps of the journey, in dialogue with the accidents of architecture’. (exposition 21mars au 21 juin 2025)

There were apparently several thousand tombs and, in places, stacked 3 layers deep.


St Genesius, a Roman civil servant, was beheaded for refusing to follow orders to persecute Christians and buried here and soon became the focus of a cult.
Saint Trophimus, possibly the first bishop of Arles, was buried also here soon afterwards. A church is dedicated to him. It was claimed that Christ himself attended the ceremony, leaving the imprint of his knee on a sarcophagus lid.


Medieval church of St Honoratus at the extremity of the site.




‘Éloge’ above below masks on tombs and fragments . . . and a ceramic tile within the floor.





And the thread, the leitmotif of the exhibition, flourishes in the deserted alveoli that once housed a tomb. The thread that stretches towards elsewhere, the thread that unwinds an indiscernible story, the thread that weaves a story of time. At the exit, ‘batôns-vigies (shepherd’s staffs) invite us to continue the path; or retrace our steps and reconnect with the thread of the journey. On the edge.
The poem choice means ‘a presence’ and a not forgotten presence. Here in the Alyscamp many, many bodies have lain with little identification left for generations to note. And does it matter? No.
Side by side, their faces blurred,
The earl and countess lie in stone,
Their proper habits vaguely shown
As jointed armour, stiffened pleat,
And that faint hint of the absurd—
The little dogs under their feet.
Such plainness of the pre-baroque
Hardly involves the eye, until
It meets his left-hand gauntlet, still
Clasped empty in the other; and
One sees, with a sharp tender shock,
His hand withdrawn, holding her hand.
They would not think to lie so long.
Such faithfulness in effigy
Was just a detail friends would see:
A sculptor’s sweet commissioned grace
Thrown off in helping to prolong
The Latin names around the base.
They would not guess how early in
Their supine stationary voyage
The air would change to soundless damage,
Turn the old tenantry away;
How soon succeeding eyes begin
To look, not read. Rigidly they
Persisted, linked, through lengths and breadths
Of time. Snow fell, undated. Light
Each summer thronged the glass. A bright
Litter of birdcalls strewed the same
Bone-riddled ground. And up the paths
The endless altered people came,
Washing at their identity.
Now, helpless in the hollow of
An unarmorial age, a trough
Of smoke in slow suspended skeins
Above their scrap of history,
Only an attitude remains:
Time has transfigured them into
Untruth. The stone fidelity
They hardly meant has come to be
Their final blazon, and to prove
Our almost-instinct almost true:
What will survive of us is love. Philip Larkin An Arundel Tomb
glycine
April 17, 2025

A wander around our little (3,000 population) commune – that sounds patronising as in fact it’s a thriving town (St Quentin la Poterie) with all the facilities we need – to admire the glycine . . . in Rue de la République . . .


. . . and next to Hervé in Place du Belle Croix



. . . and over a door in Rue de ???
Glycine comes from the ancient greek meaning sweet or syrupy because the sap has those attributes.
Wisteria comes from the name of a physicien and anatomist in Philadelphia – Caspar Wistar 1761-1818 – a friend of Thomas Jefferson and, at one point, the president of The Society of Abolition of Slavery and, whose forbears/ family were ardent botanists. Wisteria remains a printer’s typo!

The morning is full of storm
in the heart of summer.
The clouds travel like white handkerchiefs of goodbye,
the wind, travelling, waving them in its hands.
The numberless heart of the wind
beating above our loving silence.
Orchestral and divine, resounding among the trees
like a language full of wars and songs.
Wind that bears off the dead leaves with a quick raid
and deflects the pulsing arrows of the birds.
Wind that topples her in a wave without spray
and substance without weight, and leaning fires.
Her mass of kisses breaks and sinks,
assailed in the door of the summer’s wind. Pablo Neruda The Morning is Full
To gather flowers, Sappha went,
And homeward she did bring
Within her lawny continent,
The treasure of the Spring.
She smiling blush’d, and blushing smiled,
And sweetly blushing thus,
She look’d as she’d been got with child
By young Favonius.
Her apron gave, as she did pass,
An odour more divine,
More pleasing too, than ever was
The lap of Proserpine. Robert Herrick The Apron of Flowers
Filed in Uncategorized
an afternoon outside et une nuit dans l’arrière-boutique
January 27, 2025

An afternoon in 1er arrondissement Marseille to the east of the old port and where the L’ombrière fans across the blunt end of the port to provide shelter for folks waiting for tourist boats and for outdoor activities such as concerts, markets and pop ups and a magnet for photographers . . . Foster was the architect of this mirrored clad landmark which . . .

. . . can offer disconcerting images.


Nearby, an old and gracious facade infilled with present day horrors.
Functional can also be well arranged – post boxes at the entrance to Les Arcenaulx – excellent menu BTW.

And then into Maison Empereur in Rue des Récolettes described online as ‘home improvement store’ and well suppose it is but in 1827 when it was opened then quincaillerie fitted the description. It’s a must visit not only because the stairs have a proper newel post and soap is sold in very large pieces . . .


. . . the night was spent in the chambre d’hôtes offered by Maison Empereur – wonderful ambience.








The mind is an enchanted thing
like the glaze on a
katydid-wing
subdivided by sun
till the nettings are legion.
Like Giesking playing Scarltti;
like the apteryx-awl
as a beak, or the
kiwi’s rain-shawl
of haired feathers, the mind
feeling its way as though blind,
walks along with its eyes on the ground.
It has memory’s ear
that can hear without
having to hear.
Like the gyroscope’s fall,
truly equivocal
because trued by regnant certainty,
it is a power of strong enchantment. It
is like the dove-
neck animated by
sun; it is memory’s eye;
it’s conscientious inconsistency.
It tears off the veil; tears
the temptation, the
mist the heart wears,
from its eyes – if the heart
has a face; it takes apart
dejection. It’s fire in the dove-neck’s
iridescence; in the inconsistencies
of ScarlattI.
Unconfusion submits
its confusion to proof; it’s
not a Herod’s oath that cannot change. Marianne Moore
Thank you A for some of the photos.
Filed in Uncategorized
the rocky path
December 31, 2024

The path lies above the village – running northwards from the Madonne – larger than life size supposedly blessing ? with open arms facing to the south and past Uzès. The ground falls away sharply on both sides to crater-like bowls . . .



Some sprays of Ruscus aeculatus – much has been gathered and sold in the markets for Xmas decorations – sprouts above the polypodium ground cover.


Looking down and stroking the tactile moss covered rocks but avoiding the Umbilicus rupestris (navelwort or penny-pies) . . .

then looking up to the branches of the white oak coated with lichens . . .


but folks create their own installations too . . .

and the path divides when trees and rocks define . . .

and the route beckons to who knows where?

To travel the world explicit
In its fault and fold.
To enter the background
as each thought discards itself:
pine-needles to the tree-line,
scree beyond.
To move small, sleep low
and dream new depths
Of emptiness and order.
To be troubled by neither.
The loosening air
concentrates your blood
And your heart has a simple grip
of speedwell or gentian.
You forget what it is
to elaborate or qualify.
You breathe
white against white sky. Lavinia Greenlaw. On the Mountain.
Filed in Uncategorized
le long du chemin – along the way
May 20, 2024

Just went off on a stroll to get away from boxes and unpacking following house move to discover the poppy field on the junction where the road to St Victor des Oules cuts across the road to Vallabrix. The poppies this year are in full and long flowering mode – viewed and enjoyed in my 10 years of re-location to Occitianie – magnificent and I will remember their display. Verges are resplendent with textures and colour . . . and opuntia ficus-indica . . .


. . . my destination. One of many fields around the new base in St Quentin la Poterie – in each direction – so joyeous . . .

. . . and then a modest Vicia sylvatica or is it V.villosa thrusting up from the verge and making me stop to investigate on the way back to home. So elegant in habit but self assured too.
Acroos the narrow road, folks have planted a bank with Agave but a predator (yellow Kniphofia) has risen up to enjoy the conditions and take applause . . .


and next door a punica showers over the path that isn’t a path – one can get knocked down here . . .

. . . ferula pushing upwards. Then very close to home, the egg shelf and a gentle solanum which nudged me into thinking of planting another. It’s all quite comforting but it’s been a jolt. And the choice of poem ) well, Mary Oliver, you are just a star.


The poppies send up their
orange flares; swaying
in the wind, their congregations
are a levitation
of bright dust, of thin
and lacy leaves.
There isn’t a place
in this world that doesn’t
sooner or later drown
in the indigos of darkness,
but now, for a while,
the roughage
shines like a miracle
as it floats above everything
with its yellow hair.
Of course nothing stops the cold,
black, curved blade
from hooking forward —
of course
loss is the great lesson.
But I also say this: that light
is an invitation
to happiness,
and that happiness,
when it’s done right,
is a kind of holiness,
palpable and redemptive.
Inside the bright fields,
touched by their rough and spongy gold,
I am washed and washed
in the river
of earthly delight —
and what are you going to do —
what can you do
about it —
deep, blue night? Mary Oliver Poppies

A visit, a while ago, to a garden Le Jardin d’Eden, with a personality – a living energy – that has remained engrained in my memory. Not only for the impact that this landscape (I prefer this description) made but also the experience of the visit after a very hot summer here in the Gard, the journey north to the Drôme in October was a boon – it even rained . . . eventually.

And so on arrival, le jardin d’accueil (the welcome garden) – delicate in treatment but also somehow firm – and where Erik Borja’s sculptural identity balances with his obvious talent as a gardener. https://www.erikborja.fr
There is a small basin here where the visitor can purify themselves according to Feng Shui but honestly I was more taken with the leaf drop neatly sitting within the raked gravel . . .



Wandering into the Jardin de Thé alongside and running below the main house, folks were busy tidying on high instead of offering cups of tea and quite rightly as it was that time of the year – leaves were falling down to below .


Now it is a woodland garden in the grounds of the ancient Convent des Cordeliers but originally the family farmed the fruit orchards on the surrounding land . . .


. . . signs of people playing on the ground. And signs of great instinctiveness with the creation of the third dimension - volumes and spaces both generous and narrow to frame views through to beyond.
Here we start to feel how Borja’s origins – Algeria with the Mediterranean garden ethic – have manifested into a particular landscape.



. . . still signs of the family fruit farm .

In the Dragon Garden, having followed narrow sinuous paths, the miniature waterfalls and basins reflect the Herbasse river with, in the autumn, colour from the acers boosting the contrast with the evergreen structure.




Bold bamboo planting by the boundary river the Isère which flows down from the Italian Alps into the Rhône above Valence. The scent of anything flowering or from foliage is subsequently held in the garden..

.. and to the Garden of Meditations – the most recent creation, I believe.

Erik Borja sadly passed away this winter; His garden is his legacy enjoyed by many.

I came once to sit on Cold Mountain
And lingered here for thirty years.
Yesterday I went to see relatives and friends;
Over half had gone to the Yellow Springs.
Bit by bit life fades like a guttering lamp,
Passes on like a river that never rests.
This morning I face my lonely shadow
And before I know it tears stream down.
Today I sat before the cliff,
Sat a long time till mists had cleared.
A single thread, the clear stream runs cold;
A thousand yards the green peaks lift their heads.
White clouds—the morning light is still;
Moonrise—the lamp of night drifts upward;
Body free from dust and stain,
What cares could trouble my mind?
The clear water sparkles like crystal,
You can see through it easily, right to the bottom.
My mind is free from every thought,
Nothing in the myriad realms can move it.
Since it cannot be wantonly roused,
Forever and forever it will stay unchanged.
When you have learned to know in this way
You will know there is no inside or out! ColdMoutain Han Shan
Filed in architecture, art, cherry trees, france, gardens, plants, poetry, rural, stone, trees, water
Tags: country, france, gardens, great gardens, history, morocco, travel, visual
January
January 11, 2024
Covered in guilt for neglecting . . . . off I went feet on the ground and eyes skyward searching for beauties on deciduous canopies. Here Melia azedarach (chinaberry tree, pride of India, bead–tree, Cape lilac, syringa berrytree, Persian lilac, Indian lilac) and then a nest neatly cocooned high in a Celtis . . . .


The house walls and garden walls are covered with Parthenocissus now showing the fruits of the year . . .

. . . now eyes down to admire the pruning – all so neat – but allowing the thrusting spikes on last year’s growth to show the forceful nature of another fruiting plant.

But impossible to ignore the last remnants on the Chêne blanc – the sound alone on a breezy day lifts the spirits . . .

. . . and some evergreens in full costume and, with the romarin, in full aroma.


Ah, these nights of January
when I sit recreating our moments
in my mind and I meet you
and hear our last words and hear our first.
These desperate nights of January
as vision goes and I am alone.
How does it go, and quickly fade-
gone the trees, gone the streets, gone the houses, gone the lights,
your erotic face erased and lost. C.P.Cavafy January Ιανουάριο
He was the one man I met up in the woods
That stormy New Year’s morning; and at first
sight,
Fifty yards off, I could not tell how much
Of the strange tripod was a man. His body,
Bowed horizontal, was supported equally
By legs at one end, by a rake at the other:
Thus he rested, far less like a man than
His wheel-barrow in profile was like a pig.
But when I saw it was an old man bent,
At the same moment came into my mind
The games at which boys bend thus, High-
Cockalorum,
Or Fly-the-garter, and Leap-frog. At the sound
Of footsteps he began to straighten himself;
His head rolled under his cape like a tortoise’s;
He took an unlit pipe out of his mouth
Politely ere I wished him “A Happy New Year,”
And with his head cast upward sideways
Muttered–
So far as I could hear through the trees’ roar–
“Happy New Year, and may it come fastish, too,”
While I strode by and he turned to raking leaves. Edward Thomas. The New Year
en hâte – a quick trot around
March 23, 2023

On a daily quick trot around the village I note the quite magnificent blossom this year on the amandier (almond trees) with scent that flowed through the air for tens of metres. And it looks as though smaller plants such as the native iris are coming to the flowering party too – this group I appreciate growing up from the footings of the lavoir building opposite L’Accalmie, the village B+B – this old ‘jardin’ area remains uncultivated but the existing plants don’t care – thank goodness . . .


. . . one of the many apertures of L’Accalmie is host to another almond – from here the view to the south takes in the statuesque horse chestnut.


St Pons la Calm is an unassuming village with housing and work buildings for the vignerons and their families and those working in the fields. The odd spaces are given over to the productive so a planting of olives is appropriate and entirely expected. Hopefully these open plots are not filled in. The flowers of the mimosas (Acacia dealbata) are just just petering out . . .


. . . but the abricots are at the starting blocks. The water tower, le Pont Roux remains a static calming landmark in the fields to the north of the village.
https://saint-pons-la-calm.fr/patrimoine/Pont-Roux_fichiers/pont_roux.htm

Just beside the tower and its associated ditch which morphs into a path, the seasonal notice and barrier goes up between March and July to protect the nursery habitat of the toads. The laces and toads are visible at close quarters but none today.

However the hoopoes are back.
Walking along the ridge of the Bois Nègre I spy what seems to be a mirage but, of course not, just sheets of plastic on the asperge humps . . .

. . . with a lonely orchis purpurea in the foreground but in reality, the verges and ditches are fully populated with them now.

Back home the top lawn is a matrix of violas, baby blue eyes, pink lewesia, alliums, muscari, trefoils, euphorbia, daisies and pissenlit so hence the choice of poem.

I can’t pretend to a golden parabola,
or to the downing of many pints
For making a magnificent water.
I can’t begin to write my name, no
Not even my pet name, in the snow:
Except in pointless unreadable script.
But I can print a stream of bubbles
into water with velocity
you’d have to call aesthetic.
I can shoot down a jet stream
so intense my body rises
a full forty feet and floats
on a bubble stem of grace
for just a few seconds
up there in the urban air. Jo Shapcott Piss Flower
a river – a village – l’un des plus belles villages de france
October 5, 2022

Aiguèze sits above the Rhone surrounded by vineyards on the lower slopes and garrigue landscape on the higher. This village is included in the grouping of Les Plus Belles Villages de France with another 3 villages – Lussan, la Roque sur Cèze, Montlcus – similarly crowned all within 20 kms . . .


the remains of the keep and the Saracen tower, witnesses of the old fortified castle, the fortifications and their walkway (11th century), which we owe to the Count of Toulouse… From the Saracen invasions (8th century) to the “Jacqueries” (14th century), Aiguèze underwent – like many villages in the medieval period! Aiguèze suffered – like many villages in the Middle Ages – destruction, looting and other revolts that could have led to its disappearance. Fortunately, it was not! The village owes much of its current appearance to Monsignor Fuzet, Archbishop of Rouen and “child of the country”, who devoted a lot of time and resources to its conservation and modernization at the beginning of the 20th century. Thus, for example, the Place du Jeu de Paume, planted with plane trees, where one meets for the game of bowls, or the 11th century church and its crenellated facades. Throughout the walk, the typical southern architecture of the region is revealed. The Grand Rue paved with Ardèche pebbles, the vaulted passage of the “Combe aux oiseaux” or the light stone houses with round tile roofs confirm it: we are indeed in the South!
https://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/fr/

. . . the interior of the church is a delight and all surfaces painted within an inch of its life – patterns, colour, shapes and joyful decoration – thanks to Monseigneur Fuzet, archiveque de Rouen, who restored the church interior in the style of Notre-Dame de Paris. This little chap, however, looks totally fed up with it all – his toes touched and stroked by all who coud reach . . .


. . . the churchyard is cosy – sheltered from the winds blowing downstream from the Ardèche . . .


. . . narrow streets (les ruelles étroites) provide shade as well as framing glimpses through and beyond. The olives are just turning now . . .


. . . in Grande Rue, an atelier and house of an artist, curioser and curioser . . .


. . . tough resilient yucca snuggling up to an armandier on Rue du Castelas overlooking Chemin de Borian where generations of boatmen and fishermen lived and worked. Tough and resilient pistacia lentiscus is also on show in the garrigue above the village. The resin makes a gum noted for medicinal uses – improving digestion and intestinal ulcers, oral health, and liver health too – so useful but also attractive . .

. . . looking downstream with Mont Ventoux and the mountains to the east . . .

. . . and upstream towards the Ardèche and Drôme – mesmerising with questions to be answered.

Then Almitra spoke, saying, ‘We would ask now of Death.’
And he said:
You would know the secret of death.
But how shall you find it unless you seek it in the heart of life?
The owl whose night-bound eyes are blind unto the day cannot unveil the mystery of light.
If you would indeed behold the spirit of death, open your heart wide unto the body of life.
For life and death are one, even as the river and the sea are one.
In the depth of your hopes and desires lies your silent knowledge of the beyond;
And like seeds dreaming beneath the snow your heart dreams of spring.
Trust the dreams, for in them is hidden the gate to eternity.
Your fear of death is but the trembling of the shepherd when he stands before the king whose hand is to be laid upon him in honour.
Is the shepherd not joyful beneath his trembling, that he shall wear the mark of the king?
Yet is he not more mindful of his trembling?
For what is it to die but to stand naked in the wind and to melt into the sun?
And what is to cease breathing, but to free the breath from its restless tides, that it may rise and expand and seek God unencumbered?
Only when you drink from the river of silence shall you indeed sing.
And when you have reached the mountain top, then you shall begin to climb.
And when the earth shall claim your limbs, then shall you truly dance. Death Xx11 Kahlil Gibran
Filed in architecture, food, france, natural, olivier/olives, plants, poetry, trees, water
Tags: churches, country, history, languedoc, visual
gardens and the wider landscape
May 5, 2022

A visit to 2 gardens in the Vaucluse with a group from the Mediterranean Gardening France very much looked forward to, on my part, after lock downs et al. Both gardens in Le Barroux and both with views of Mont Ventoux. Differing in scale and also in character but personal nonetheless. This garden facing south on a sloping site where terracing has facilitated easy circulation as well as the pleasure of discovery of informal and open spaces and created with apposite planting. The owners know what they want to achieve . . .

. . by leaving certain areas to speak for themselves in an uncluttered form. Why clutter up with decorative planting when nature has provided the perfect ambience.



The Rosa banksia Lutea is mature and splendid . . .

. . . the centranthus ruber hosts the papilio machaon (swallow tail butterfly) and carpenter beetles. In this part of the Vaucluse, if space allows, then a lavender field is sort of obligatory, and in this garden a shady seating area overlooks and offers a view of Mont Ventoux to boot.



We moved onto the second garden very close by, where again Mont Ventoux made a splendid backcloth and, turning the eye to the north the Abbey of Le Barroux, a traditionalist Benedictine abbey and built fairly recently (40 years old), sits in splendour. The monks were busy with noisy tractors working in their vineyards – good for them.


This garden is defined by the owner as a sculpture garden. On arrival, the Five Arrows by Walter Bailey placed in broad bands of Pennisetum by the apricot orchard is well sited. . .

. . . other pieces are equally well placed; the bespoke furniture made by the ferronier and menuisier adds to the creative character of the garden.



The journey around the site moves in 360 degrees – views out and cross views within – ensuring a complete experience. It’s a tantalising and exciting voyage but, at the same time, can be meditative (seating well and thoughtfully positioned) and speculative . . .

. . . another mature Lady Rosa Banks’ rose (it’s that time of year – hallellujah) in the rill garden . .

. and ferula making a statement alongside sculpture on a sloping bank. Another seasonal statement of a tamarisk front of stage against the blue Provencal sky. Hello and good-bye Le Barroux.



Back near home and, in a wider agriculural landscape, the Pont Roux, our beautiful, graceful and well proportioned water tower, seems to survey this valley packed with produce bursting out of the ground and from vines and fruit trees. Newly planted asperge at over 1.5m high now will be harvested next year.


Plants native to the garrigue are filling the banks and close up Muscari comosum or Leopoldia comosa – tassel grape hyacinth – intirgues. Apparently the bulb is a culinary delicacy . . .


. poppies abound – so joyful. In the garden – it’s starting to be riotous with Rosa odorata Mutabilis duetting with the phlomis so hence the choice of poem.


I can’t turn a smell
into a single word;
you’ve no right
to ask. Warmth
coaxes rose fragrance
from the underside of petals.
The oils meet air:
rhodinal is old rose;
geraniol, like geranium;
nerol is my essence
of magnolia; eugenol,
a touch of cloves. Jo Shapcott Rosa odorata
Filed in art, cherry trees, france, olivier/olives, poetry, stone, trees, vines, water
Tags: country, great gardens, languedoc, visual
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