Harper’s incomplete Japan travel thoughts and guide
Over the years I have collected a lot of fun experiences in Japan. A lot of friends have asked for advice, recommendations, etc. This is an attempt to collate as much of these experiences and ideas into one place. You can always view this doc at japan.harperreed.com. Let me know if you have additions or suggestions. As with everything on the internet, YMMV.
High level thoughts / suggestions
- Get a Suica. If you have an iPhone, you can add it to your iPhone wallet super easy. if you have an Android phone, get an iPhone
- The physical Suica are impossible to get due to chip shortages. just use your phone (iPhone only)
- You can only load a Suica digitally using an AMEX, or MC. plan accordingly
- If you have an android, the pasmo app will work with google pay (please confirm)
- You can get a cheap e-sim from Airalo
- Google FI is perfect for travel in general
- Cash is still used in a lot of places
- You can get cash from ATMs at 7/11 and JP Post offices
- PayPay is awesome but you can’t use it. Hachipay is even cooler
- Use a Suica for everything. I mean everything
- Convenience stores are bonkers and amazing
- It’s easy to eat cheap. Fancy shit is nice, but the cheap and good is way better
- Daikanyama, Aoyama, Setagaya, Nakano, Omotesando, Shinjuku, and Ueno are all fun to explore
- Don’t sleep on Yanaka / Yanesen / The Shita-machi area right behind Ueno
- Yoyogi is a very nice area. The shrine area is perfect for a long walk
- Always keep an assortment of coins on you in case you come across a shrine
- Apparently young people think Kuramae Asakusabashi is the jam
- ChatGPT is remarkably handy with real time recommendations. Perplexity is even better (real time and web results)
- If you don’t know what to do, go to a park. I like Yoyogi park
- The pony park right by Yoyogi park is very nice with young kids
- Yoyogi has a really nice play park (kind of free range wild park for kids)
- Setagaya Koen also has a really nice play park
- There are a lot of SL Parks (if the kids like trains)
- Kamakura is nice
- Now that Japan is overrun an by tourists, it is important to be more thoughtful about your impact.
- Be polite and respectful. Try not to be loud
- Unless otherwise noted, stay on the left. Walk on the left, stand on the left, drive on the left, etc
- Be aware of the posted signs, and try and follow them
- Chatgpt or Claude can easily read the signs and tell you what they say and what they mean. No excuse not to use them
- Don’t be loud on the trains in Tokyo. Do not talk on the phone on the train
- Take the trains. The cabs are easy - but it is a similar amount of time as the train and the train is cheapppp
- The Shinkansen is amazing. They sometimes don’t have a food cart, so remember to buy some goodies for your trip
- The Shinkansen smartEX app is a nice way to get tix. You can link it to your IC card and not have to talk to a human after waiting in a line of humans. You also won’t have to fiddle with QR codes or worry about losing your ticket.
- You can book trains online and then use the QR code they email to you to pick up your paper tickets.
- The trains typically don’t have luggage storage areas. Look at the seat map to find which cars may have it. Be prepared to stand with your luggage unless you find a spot to store it.
- Don’t bring a large luggage. Just don’t. Buy a muji rolling suitcase at the end of your trip. You will love it, it is cheap, and you don’t have to lug a big af suitcase wherever you go.
- Do bring a tote.
- A reasonable and popular gift is to bring trader joe’s tote bags to give to friends and family (Omiyage).
- If you want to see a fast train, go to Yamanashi and watch the maglev train. Fast af
- The JR Pass is aapparently a good deal if you are going to be traveling a lot. If you are only going to Tokyo, it’s not worth it
- I never have bothered with the JR Pass. It doesn’t make sense for me
- If you lose something, narrow down the locale and call/visit the management offices of the park, building, train, etc. They may have it in a lost and found type thing
- You can drink on the street. go to 7/11, grab a chu-hai or a beer. enjoy. be cool tho.
- Kabukicho is fun, but Goldengai is more fun. (go to my friend Fumino’s bar)
- The small bars in Shibuya are also very good
- Piss Alley in Shinjuku can be fun and magic
- Ameyoko is a fun street food area in Ueno
- Never say no to teamlab
- Chu-hai is good. Oolong-hai is better. Ryokucha Hai is the best
- Tamago sando is tasty (I like lawson’s, but 7/11 and Family Mart are just as good)
- Famichiki is incredible. Karaage-kun is also good.
- There is a wild sparkling water bubble arms race. 7/11 seems to have the most sparkly, but apparenlty Donki is quite intense. Itai!
- Setagaya has amazing coffee shops (bear pond, etc)
- Coffee in Tokyo isn’t fucking around. Check out Bear Pond Coffee, Koffee Mameya, KOFFEE Kakeru, L’Ambre, Sakurai (tea), Mercer CAFe and Toranomon Koffee at the Andaz. all amazing. Also, you will have good luck at the random small coffee spots too. Don’t wait in line
- Kiyosumi-Shirakawa is another spot for independent coffee shops (also has a nice art museum)
- Kama-Asa is the kitchen and home section of Tokyo. It’s such a cool spot. especially if you, like me, have a kitchen
- Tsutaya Daikanyama is a super nice place to chill. an amazing book store, good lounge on the second floor. Don’t patronize the Starbucks lol
- Roppongi is boring. Fight me.
- Check out Kichijoji on the Chuo-line for small shops (fashion, etc) and drinking places in alleys
- If you are looking for shopping, check out or stay in Otemachi - located in Marunouchi between Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace. Start at Beams Plus
- Spend a day in Koenji — it has 100+ vintage clothing stores, making it one of the densest vintage areas in Tokyo.
- Dedicate another day to Harajuku / Omotesando, one of the main fashion neighborhoods. Check out A Presse, Auralee, Engineered Garments, ATON, and of course Visvim
- Yamanashi is not so far, and really pretty. Also starting to get more popular
- Eat some basashi (Horse Sashimi). With fresh ginger it’s incredible
- The Hoshinoya chain of hotels is really remarkable
- Boat Racing, Motorcycle racing (no brakes) is a fun and very unique experience. I promise your friends have not been
- It’s very safe in Japan. Regardless, don’t be an idiot
- It will be hot AF July through Sept. Recommend not going then. The rainy season in June is not a good time. Sept is ok. Winter and the spring are nice.
- “Hot AF in japan” is incredibly hot
- Umbrellas are a magical thing. get the clear one for when it rains, and the non clear one for when It’s hot out. don’t buy a fancy one - just get the 500 yen one at the conbini
- Rain coats are nice, but not always needed. The umbrella is usually enough.
- For some reason, the mosquittos in japan seem more aggressive. Get some bug spray.
- The boat ride from Tokyo teleport to Asakusa is pretty nice. Take the slow anime boat.
- Go visit a Gundam
- Drink a high ball in a can. Find a nice high ball bar and really live. Make sure they have the Suntory high ball machine. Maybe find hiball Charlie and say hi. ball
- Vegetarian food is hard to do with a group. If you need veggie, or vegan - go to a vegetarian/vegan restaurant. Fish is in everything.
- If you are vegetarian, print this on a card and take it with you: 私はベジタリアンです。卵や乳製品は大丈夫ですが、肉や魚（出汁も含む）は食べられません。
- If you are vegan, use this: 私はビーガンです。卵や乳製品、肉や魚はもちろん、動物由来の成分を含むものも食べられません。
- Anpan, shokopan, croissants, and all bread things are amazing
- Starting your day with a hot bottle of green tea, and an anman from the conbini is very nice
- The french bakeries are legit
- Don’t go to McDonalds. Go to MosBurger or Freshness Burger
- In fact, if the place exists in the west - don’t go there. Japan is full of magical things that are not accessible in the west. Go to those things
- Family Restarants are a real thing. They are awesome.
- There is a Royal Host across from the Tokyo Parasite Museum (highly recommend the museum)
- Coco’s family restaurant uses robots
- The best family restarants are the washoku ones
- Ramen is tasty. Japanese curry is good. Soba is divine
- Try the ramen with a fuck ton of parmesan cheese on top of it
- Don’t search for sushi in english. Places that are optimizing for tourists will use SEO in english. Places not optimizing for tourists won’t do SEO in english
- Wahoo pasta is wonderful. Lot’s of places to get this. Fast, tasty and easy
- In fact, wahoo anything is typically tasty
- A burger in Tokyo is an amazing thing
- Pizza in Japan is serious
- One of the best places to eat are in the basement depachika of fancy department stores
- Fancy onigiri from the depatchka or Tokyo stations is way better than konbini
- You can get a great meal for pretty cheap.
- Matsuya in Ginza has a wonderful depachika, and a really nice rooftop terrace (with a shrine) where you can eat
- Go to Kyoto (bullet train). The temples are amazing. Go visit my friend Taka. Tell him Harper sent ya.
- Go to Okinawa. If you can’t make it to Okinawa, go get some taco rice and imagine you are there
- Go to Hokkaido. Eat uni
- Go to Sapporo
- Go to Kyushu
- Go to Mie and eat Matsusaka beef
- Wagyu is hilarious in japan. Cuz its just Japanese beef; like its all wagyu. The prefecture matters tho: Kobe, Matsusaka, Yamagata are all great
- Onsens are great. Complicated when you are covered in Tattoos. You will need to search for a place that’s friendly to tattoos
- Don’t do the go-carting thing. Japanese people seem to hate it (It’s a lot of fun tho. lol)
- Izu is a short trip from Tokyo, and beautiful.
- The drive from Yamanashi to Izu is even better
- Driving in Japan is fun. Get an international drivers license
- Find tiny mountain roads and drive them slowly. It is perfect
- If you do rent a car, be sure and get the ETC card. It makes the highway a bit more usable.
- The truck stops along the highway are nice.
- Google Maps in english sucks for driving. Apple Maps is better (actually pronounces the Japanese words)
- No plan is the best plan
- Make friends with people who can take you to a nijikai
- If you want tasty food, a lot of places require reservation. Reservations are typically only accessible to Japanese speakers. Concierges can help with this. The more powerful and classic hotels have more pull
- If you happen to buy too much stuff, buy a cheap suitcase from Muji (good), Tokyu hands (expensive) or Donki (cheap).
- Donki is bonkers. don’t go to the one in Roppongi
- Each Donki is tailored to the area its in. akiba is what you would expect (lots of cosplay, games, etc), Ginza has a lot of omiyage, etc.
- There’s such thing as a Super Donki. and even a MEGA DONKI
- If you need kids stuff, go to kiddieland. If you need baby stuff go to Akachan Honpo
- Visit bic camera
- Muji is perfect. Loft is fun. Hands is also great
- Pachinko is loud AF
- If you see a line and its full of tourists with rollerboards, skip it. there are better places without the lines. If there is a line and it has no tourists, then it’s most likely special
- IMO, the reason Tokyo is so magical is because the population is bonkers
- You don’t have to stay at the Andaz, the Park Hyatt, or the Aman. You should stay at the Okura.
- The new trunk hotel in Yoyogi is nice
- The Edition hotels are decent
- AirBNB are pretty nice. Not like in the west. Whole different experience
- The business hotels are really pretty good if you are solo. Easy, Cheap and abundant (anywhere from 500-15000 yen a night)
- Take a lot of photos
- Fantasize about buying/getting an Akiya
- Big groups are often hard in Japan. You can go to chain restaurants, but nothing is structured for large groups unless you want to pay dollars (or, I guess, yen)
- Very good second hand stores are all over Japan called Hard Off (book off, garage off, etc). Good for everything.
- Thrifting in Japan can be a lot of fun. Just beware that a lot of shops are consignment, and not thrift / vintage - and thus expensive. Find the true thrift stores
- Watch midnight diner before you go
- HI-FI Bars are dope
- Find a nice audiophile bar that isn’t Bar Martha. Bar Martha is nice, but overrated
- If you like metal, check out metal bar godz
Txt me if you need any real time suggestions or whatever. Send me your tips!
Some favorite spots and such
Temples
- Shunkoin Temple - 👥 Friend's Zen temple in Kyoto. Offers meditation sessions and stays. - Kyoto - link
Stores
- Comme des Garçons Aoyama - Flagship store designed with Takao Kawasaki. Architectural landmark and fashion destination since 1999. - Aoyama, Tokyo - link
- Don Quijote (Donki) - Chaotic discount emporium. Each one matches its neighborhood's personality. Avoid Roppongi. - Japan
- Dover Street Market Ginza - Rei Kawakubo's concept store blending fashion, art, and installation. Multi-floor experience with rooftop shrine and café. - Ginza, Tokyo - link
- Hard Off / Book Off - Secondhand store chain with treasures for electronics, music, and books. - Japan
- Kama-Asa - Historic kitchen supply district — knives, pans, ceramics, all top-tier Japanese craft. - Asakusa, Tokyo - link
- Kiddyland - Wonderland of toys and character goods — perfect for kids or nostalgic adults. - Harajuku, Tokyo - link
- Matsuya Ginza - Department store with elegant depachika and rooftop terrace shrine. - Ginza, Tokyo - link
- Tsutaya Daikanyama - Beautiful bookshop complex with café, architecture, and impeccable vibes. - Daikanyama, Tokyo - link
Restaurants
- Adi - 👥 Very cool and modern nepalese restaurant - Tokyo - link
- Akasaka Kichou （赤坂 希鳥） - Yakitori hideaway specializing in Black Satsuma Chicken with sake and wine pairings - Akasaka, Tokyo - link
- Aoyagi （青柳） - 👥 A friend's wonderful kaiseki place - Tokyo - link
- Gyoza Mania Shinagawa Honten （餃子マニア） - Gyoza specialist making fresh dough to order. Tabelog 100 Dumplings 2024. - Shinagawa, Tokyo - link
- HENRY'S BURGER Daikanyama （ヘンリーズ バーガー 代官山） - Great american style burger counter - Tokyo - link
- Higurashi （ひぐらし） - One of my favorite places! - Tokyo - link
- ISSEI YUASA （イッセイ ユアサ） - 👥 A friend's nice wine bar (AI CEO) - Tokyo - link
- Jikka - A wonderful and eccentric weekend spot - Shizuoka - link
- Massif - A nice and hip breakfast / dinner spot with a great stereo - Meguro - link
- Niku Kappou Akasaka Yuuga （肉割烹 赤坂ゆうが） - Premium meat kaiseki featuring Wagyu beef, seasonal seafood, and vegetables - Akasaka, Tokyo - link
- Tsukumo Ramen Ebisu Honten （九十九ラーメン） - wild cheese ramen shop in Ebisu. a mountain of parm. - Tokyo - link
- つくね 虎ノ門店 - A really great yakitori place (where a lot of gov people go for nomikai) - Tokyo - link
Parks
- Midoricho Sports Park Kofu （緑町スポーツ公園） - Massive playground complex with creative play structures, perfect for energetic kids. - Kofu, Yamanashi
- Setagaya Park - Large public park with mini railway, play areas, and sports facilities. - Setagaya, Tokyo - link
- Setagaya Play Park - Free-play adventure playground with loose parts, tools, and supervised creative play. - Setagaya, Tokyo - link
- SL Park Setagaya （SL公園） - Small park featuring a real steam locomotive that kids can climb on. - Setagaya, Tokyo
- Ueno Park （上野公園） - Historic park with museums, zoo, temples, and famous cherry blossoms. Cultural hub of Tokyo. - Taito, Tokyo - link
- Yoyogi Park - Lush park perfect for long walks, people-watching, and family-friendly play areas. - Tokyo - link
- Yoyogi Play Park （はるのおがわプレーパーク） - Adventure playground in Yoyogi Park where kids can build forts and play freely. - Shibuya, Tokyo - link
Neighborhoods
- Daikanyama - Tokyo's modern village — great for architecture, fashion, and chill bookstores. - Tokyo
- Kichijoji - A lively neighborhood full of indie shops, bars, and Inokashira Park. - Tokyo
- Setagaya - Residential, artsy, and full of great coffee. Real Tokyo living. - Tokyo
- Yanaka / Yanesen - Historic shitamachi area behind Ueno. Narrow alleys, old houses, and nostalgic energy. - Tokyo
Museums
- teamLab Planets - Immersive digital art installation. Always worth it. - Toyosu, Tokyo - link
- Yamanashi Prefectural Science Center （山梨県立科学館） - Interactive science museum with planetarium, hands-on exhibits, and educational programs for kids. - Kofu, Yamanashi - link
Hotels
- Ace Hotel Kyoto - Historic 1926 red-brick building redesigned by Kengo Kuma. Modern meets traditional in Kyoto's central district with Stumptown Coffee. - Karasuma Oike, Kyoto - link
- Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills - Lifestyle hotel on upper floors of Toranomon Hills. 52nd floor rooftop bar with city views, indoor pool, and design by Tony Chi. - Toranomon, Tokyo - link
- BnA WALL - Art hotel where every room is an installation by contemporary artists. Rotating 6-meter murals in common space. Stay in art, become a patron. - Nihonbashi, Tokyo - link
- Hoshinoya Fuji - Japan's first luxury glamping resort with Mt. Fuji views. 40 cabins with private terraces, fireplaces, and Glamping Masters. Alpine sophistication. - Lake Kawaguchiko, Yamanashi - link
- Hoshinoya Hotels - Luxury ryokan chain blending tradition and modern aesthetics. - Japan - link
- Hoshinoya Tokyo - High-rise ryokan near Tokyo Station blending tradition with contemporary luxury. Rooftop onsen, kenjutsu classes, tatami floors throughout. - Otemachi, Tokyo - link
- Hotel Okura Tokyo - Classic Tokyo luxury with timeless design and old-school service. - Minato, Tokyo - link
- Moxy Tokyo Kinshicho - Playful 'Edo Pop' hotel with youthful energy. Check in at the bar, arcade games, and social atmosphere. Budget-friendly Marriott. - Kinshicho, Tokyo - link
- Park Hyatt Tokyo - Iconic Lost in Translation hotel reopening December 2025 after full renovation. New York Grill on 52nd floor, Studio Jouin Manku design. - Shinjuku, Tokyo - link
- The Tokyo EDITION Toranomon - Luxury lifestyle hotel by Kengo Kuma and Ian Schrager. Private terraces from level 31, Tokyo Tower views, contemporary oasis. - Toranomon, Tokyo - link
Destinations
- Kamakura - Coastal escape with temples, old streets, and sea breeze. Easy Tokyo day trip. - Kamakura
- Maglev Test Track - Superconducting Maglev test run in Yamanashi. Ridiculously fast. - Yamanashi - link
- Shinagawa Aquarium （しながわ水族館） - Family-friendly aquarium with dolphin shows, touch pools, and sea life exhibits. - Shinagawa, Tokyo - link
Cafés
- Bear Pond Coffee - Legendary Setagaya coffee spot with perfect espresso and serious analog coffee energy. - Setagaya, Tokyo - link
- CAFE DE L'AMBRE （カフェ・ド・ランブル） - Classic Ginza coffee institution. Tabelog 100 Kissaten with serious coffee philosophy and quiet atmosphere. - Ginza, Tokyo - link
- Coffee Elementary School （私立珈琲小学校） - Charming school-themed cafe with specialty coffee in a cozy retro atmosphere. - Kinshicho, Tokyo - link
- Koffee Mameya - Temple of coffee perfection. Minimalist space with highly curated beans. - Omotesando, Tokyo - link
- KOFFEE MAMEYA Kakeru （コーヒー マメヤ カケル） - Reservation-only experimental coffee lab. Innovative brewing techniques and unique combinations. - Kiba, Tokyo - link
- MERCER CAFE DANRO （マーサー カフェ ダンロ） - NY Italian café with authentic stone fireplace, terrace seating, and cozy lounge atmosphere. - Ebisu, Tokyo - link
- Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience （櫻井焙茶研究所） - Tea ceremony reinvented for the modern era. A sensory experience worth making time for. - Aoyama, Tokyo - link
- TORANOMON KOFFEE （虎ノ門コーヒー） - Sleek coffee space in Toranomon Hills business district. Quality coffee with contemporary urban vibes. - Toranomon, Tokyo - link
Bars
- Metal Bar Godz - Iconic metal bar with an international following. Heavy music, friendly regulars. - Shinjuku, Tokyo - link
- Suzu Bar （スズバー） - 👥 Friend Fumino's cozy and welcoming bar in Golden Gai. Excellent vibes, drinks, and people. - Shinjuku, Tokyo - link
Activitys
- Boat Race (Kyotei) （競艇） - High-speed hydroplane boat racing with betting. Wild motorsport with 24 tracks across Japan, 100 yen entry. - Japan - link
Resources
- Tabelog - yelp of Japan. A rating of 3.5 is a great place, a 4.0 is bonkers. Jiro is 4.01
- ChatGPT - it is pretty handy for negotiating japan Here is is my guide
- Tokyo Young Family Travel Guide - Harper Curated, AI written, harper edited, approximately vetted
- Tableall - like open table. Book early. Book often
- Nifty Onsens - spas
- Ramen DB - deep cut ramen database ran by ramen otaku
Friend’s Guides
- Leonard Lin's Guide(my fav)
- Brandon Gador's guide
- Uncharted Tokyo's Guide
- Noemi's Guide
- Kenzo Digital's guide recommendedAby Kenzo Digital
- Nate Bosshard's HI-FI Bar Map
