Finding a place to be in the French countryside has been a lot of work and even more luck. When we started seriously looking, we decided that making a list was an important, adult-like step so we started brainstorming and scribbling. Over many weekend mornings with coffee in hand, we scooched up on our favorite couch overlooking our front yard and whispered what we thought would be key to the perfect French hideaway while our children slept on, buried under heavy quilts in various bedrooms. It was a worthy project and we figured out what we reckoned were some important components. Things immediately floated to the top of the list, like having water security and access to it seemed obvious while some were less important and more “wants” rather than “needs”. A patisserie right around the corner would be lovely, but hardly critical and potentially devastating to my pant size. Some dreams should probably remain just that. Over time, the list grew and shrank and changed in priorities as we thought things through. Obvious lines like cost stayed fixed but other things changed as we mentally moved around the back roads of France.
A difficult part with all of this is that it’s _all_ mental. You can imagine what you’d like but the world doesn’t bend to your imagination unless you’re a billionaire. It’s really more about finding the spot where the puzzle piece fits best, not where it fits perfectly, because it won’t. There’s some chaos to consider, and for some, that’s absolutely terrifying. For me, it’s the sprinkles on the bagel of life. It’s what makes it more than just a bread doughnut.
“Discovery” is a far nicer way than saying “unknown” and it’s deeply important to both my wife and to me. It might be for our teenage kids too, but it’s tricky to tell, their personality partly masked by the weight of those teen years. Still, we feel that it must be there somewhere judging on how eagerly they go looking for local cats to pet when the moment dinner is over.
Dinner is something we hadn’t really thought about when making up our list but it has become a pretty big part of the experience here for us all. Specifically, Wednesday dinner. We had bought our house sight unseen except for some beautiful photos made by the seller and some very janky videos made by the estate agent. It’s hard to wrap your head around what a space really looks like until you can physically stand there and understand how big or small a room actually is. Photos will definitely beat-out descriptions when it comes to a real estate listing, but it can’t rival being there. So, once papers had been signed and money transferred, we came and looked at what we had done. We couldn’t move in yet, for the wheels of legalities move slowly in France, but we could come and see. We had rolled the dice and put a big chunk of our future on the real estate roulette wheel. Like I said… absolutely terrifying.
What we found out was that we were very fortunate in how the dice landed. I won’t actually say “lucky” because there had been a tremendous quantity of work that we had put into research first, but Fortune definitely smiled on us when it came to the little things that actually mean so much. Our house wasn’t next to a neighbor who was irritable and tricky. We didn’t wind up next to the farmyard where the tractor is left to idle during breaks. There wasn’t a streetlamp that shone into the bedroom window. All small stuff but items that can add up to degrading an experience and all items that are tricky to know until you actually go there and experience it. Another added piece of fortune was the seller himself. One rarely puts “delightful seller” on the list when looking for a new property to buy, but delightful he was and it quickly became apparent that our relationship with him and his wife was going to be more than transactionary and last longer than it took to just get everything signed and keys passed over. When we met just him on that first, blisteringly hot, Summer day, we all did a lot of smiling and nodding from behind N95 masks. He spoke limited English, the estate agent wandered around distractedly, I spoke nearly no French and my mulit-lingual wife, though non-contagious at this point, was still recovering from covid that had really laid her low. Communication with them was tricky, but after finally viewing the house and being shown various systems by the seller, we did understand that we were invited to the village to have dinner, which sounded lovely, but odd.
Most villages of a certain size will have market days. Where our house is doesn’t even rate as a village, but rather, a hamlet. Made up of only a handful of houses, sparsely lived in, there would never be a good enough reason to have a market here, so we go to our anchor village where market day is on Friday. This is actually pretty handy considering how much is closed on Sunday. It’s a good chance to load up. We like to go and look at what is being offered at the various trucks and stands and stock up on the necessities of life such as rotisserie chicken, local honey, some locally grown produce or a fancy, new hat. There’s even a mattress seller there, his display pieces arranged like an ambitious bedroom set for eight, while he sits on the edge of one, typing away on his mobile like a man who just woke up in some strange village square and is trying to figure out what happened. All of this is set up in the heart of a medieval village under the ubiquitous plane trees with their camouflage like bark. But as this was Wednesday and not Friday, the space has other uses just then.
We arrived that evening not knowing quite what to expect, but whatever we thought, it wasn’t what we found. The large, open spot under the leaves that had been reserved for market day and parking spots the rest of the week had been transformed with row after row of tightly packed, long, cafeteria style tables, filled to capacity with happy locals. They were there as friends and as families, old and young. Around the edges of the seating roamed older men and women looking for all the world like retired school teachers who had somehow pulled extra lunch duty and needed to keep an eye on the very congenial crowd. In their arms they held stacks of paper placemats that if you made eye contact with them, they’d hand to you to take and mark your dining spot with while you scurried off to find your choice of dinner.
That was the next step. There is no table service here. All along the periphery of all this noisy, laughing and eating enjoyment are the multitude of vendors selling everything you need to make a delicious meal, with a few special dishes spot-lit as local favorites. The family who was selling us our house was there, all smiles and anticipation and had saved us seats with their regular crew. As we looked around and partook of the food and conversation as best we could, we were warmed by more than just the good, homespun food but also the whole picture of where we were and what was happening that night. Those who had heard about the new American family who have just bought a house nearby watched us with unguarded anticipation as we tried the farçous, a sort of swiss chard pancake fried in oil and the aligot (cheese and mashed potato blended until smooth), both regional staples. The aligot was just as you’d expect potato and cheese to taste. It would stick to your ribs and keep you going. It was farmer’s food and did its job well. The farçous was something else. Served piping hot in a foil wrapped stack like pancakes, they were handed around and deeply enjoyed by all, ourselves included. They were warm and savory, peppery and fried and disappeared quickly while a few of our new friends got up from their seats to wait in line and replenish the pile. On that first night, no one would let us buy anything. We shared wine and food and what conversation we could while the accordion player who had set up at the feet of the ubiquitous war memorial played a medley of old French favorites such as the beloved “La Vie en rose” and other less expected songs such as “The Bare Necessities” from Disney’s The Jungle Book as well as Daft Punk’s “Get Lucky” and “Despacito” by Luis Fonsi. An eclectic mix that somehow works. Later on, this chaotic playlist would be a major inducement in getting our teenagers to join us in the craziness. Though neither enjoy loud crowds, they both enjoy the moment when the accordion fires up the first few lines of a new song and the two of them stare at each other over a pile of green pancakes, smirking as they attempt to figure out what the latest tune is.
Oh, My, GOD! It’s “I will survive” by Gloria Gaynor!
What we had stumbled into was a vibrant and welcoming region who wanted to make sure we noticed just that. We were invited in, attempted to communicate and even succeeded from time to time, all while being fed by the village and region. What this brings to the experience could never be accurately included in a real estate listing. This needs to be lived.
Every Summer Wednesday, the square is set up for this communal meal and the people selling gaufrettes, sausage, aligot, escargot, farçous, local honey, local beer, local wine, local jam, local everything will be there and at your service. We save room for a ball or two of gelato as we leave the table, saying “bon soir” to friends and neighbors and then wander the quiet streets of the village with our cones as we look for the well fed communally owned cats that wander about looking for a pat and rub or a bit of a treat that you might have on hand. The river flows past the town as it has for more centuries than we could know and the distant sound of accordion music floats on the breeze. It’s magical and fleeting.
Come Autumn, the village meals will end as the chilly weather takes hold, but we will be long gone far before that happens. Our time here is limited and even though we have our cottage on the river to enjoy all this from, we still need to work and that takes place back in the United States. Being teachers, six weeks is what we can manage and though that sounds like a dream for most workers back in the States, it seems like a tease once you really get to love this patch of France. We will close up our house, drain the pipes and be gone for the long, cold winter. The long tables put away and the accordion player will move inside the Cafe L’Independance to keep his fingers from freezing. We will just have to wait to enjoy all this again, dreaming of unexpected tunes and green pancakes with friends under a canopy of leaves and tradition.
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