I enjoy all of your comments about my sailing trips. Sharing my experiences with all of you makes the trips even more meaningful. Unfortunately, the blog format is too public and there have been some people who abuse this information for their own selfish needs.

I will revert to emailing my travelogue directly to those of you who would like to continue to enjoy sharing my sailing trips. This way, I can control who receives this information. Feel free to share it with your friends, I have no problem with that. To the people who have subscribed for their own selfish reasons, adieu to you.

If you don’t mind responding to this post by sending me your email, I will be sure to include you on all my upcoming rants.

Thanks for understanding and I will not make you emails public in anyway.

Captain Dale

We are anchored in Wreck Bay, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Isla San Cristobal waiting for our zarpe to depart for Puerto Ayora. The navy and immigration were here at 0830 but needed to come back in one hour with the necessary papers.

I woke up early this morning to my favorite alarm clock — roosters! We discovered that we had had a night visitor, as the aft deck was covered in slime, mud and fur. Sven and I went ashore at 0600 to try to get some extra diesel for the trip over only to find out that they can’t sell it on Sundays. There is a “diesel trafficking” culture here much akin to drug trafficking. After taking a taxi to several houses with chain link fences and finding no one at home, we resorted to asking fisherman. Luckily we were able to get some and all is well.

The wind is howling in the right direction and we shouldn’t need any fuel anyway. The up side to all this is that we had a great breakfast including TOAST and fresh fruit. It felt wonderful to walk again. I got a small dog fix as a fuzzy white one befriended me in the outdoor café. I am sure it was because of my toast, but I took the affection anyway.

It is about a four-hour sail to Puerto Ayora and we are all looking forward to getting settled in. Tomorrow, we leave in the morning for Quito and then home.

Monday Nov 23 – 0730

Our sail yesterday could not have been finer. We skated across the Canal de Santa Cruz past Isla Santa Fe to Puerto Ayora. Whales along the way, wind at 13-15 knots, we were very close-hauled to stay near our course and doing 10-11 knots all the way — what a day! Johnny Romero and Javier, our agents, greeted us, promptly taking Sven and I to Hotel Mainoa, a beautiful five story winding building with plenty of island charm. We did a whirlwind tour of the Darwin Center as it closes at 1800 and we didn’t get to the hotel until 1600. We bought some gifts for the children and took a welcome shower. We had arranged to meet Mark and Rita with their friends from Ohio for a last toast before heading off to our first evening without working in a very long time. Edgar, the bartender at SolYMar, a lovely outdoor bar on the waterfront, remembered me (and mostly Joanne, who was here with me last time) and took very good care of the thirsty/hungry sailors.

I explained to Sven what a “foodgasm” was as we both felt the same way about the fresh ceviche and fried plantains at the SolYMar. Julian, the resident pelican with only one wing, came by the table to say hello. He is well cared for there and fed fresh fish by the staff. When Mark and Rita arrived we made our toast to the “Captain and Mate” of Avida wishing them safe journey, fair winds and following seas.

My favorite, Red Sushi restaurant was next on the agenda where we ate more than our share of fresh yellow fin amongst other local delicacies accompanied by cold sake for me and some fruity mixed drinks for Sven. Being and older, morning-type person, I retired happily knowing that I could sleep through the night for the first time this trip…. aaahhh. Sven ventured out on the town to do what young people do, drink more and socialize. He met some rasta guys and enjoyed their company until the bar closed. I feel better than he does this morning despite the fact that the bed and the shower keep moving.

We were served a beautiful breakfast and café con leche this morning at the hotel. We made one last turn around the town and are preparing for our ride to the airport at 0900. I can only imagine the incredible sights from the plane on the way out. I have never been to Quito, Equador before and arriving at 1700 tonight, perhaps can get a glimpse of what kind of place it is.

Thanks for riding along.
D

The last watch … We should arrive around 1800 today. If all goes according to plan, customs closes at 1900 and we can clear in today and head over to Puerto Ayora to settle in. If not, tomorrow morning it is.

I received confirmations today for hotels and the flight to Quito which leaves on Nov 23 at 1100. We should have enough time to enjoy the town a little bit and visit the Darwin Center before leaving to drive across the island to the airport. Last night was our last dinner together on aVida, bringing much conversation of bonding, future plans and sailing. We did also learn that leftover night in Chile is called Lumamiju. (Sounds better than leftovers). Mark and Rita have decided that once they get through the canal and Mark’s’ daughters have come to visit in San Blas, they will “”Vayan donde los lleve el viento”” (Go where the wind takes you). They have already come a very long way.

Yesterday morning, the port engine overheat alarm went off at 0700. No need to get up until 0900 as it would not be cool enough to check until then. There has been very little consistent wind yesterday and today so motoring has been a necessity to arrive in time for our planes and their friends. The coolant sloshing in the bilge was not comforting as we explored for the possible culprit. Diesel engines are fairly logical so the first suspect is the raw water supply. There is a filter that can clog, an impeller that can not function properly if it sucks up foreign objects in the water, or hoses that can leak. (Thanks, Theo for the many hours of schooling on Estimated Prophet). Turns out that the rubber plug in the back of the engine was split where the hose clamp held it to the engine. Not having a spare or anything resembling one … RESCUE TAPE saves the day. It is a miracle tape that sticks to itself, withstands 500 degrees heat, is waterproof, withstands massive amounts of electrical current and can hold together just about anything. (Thanks Bob Bitchin for turning me on to that.) It held perfectly and we had plenty of spare coolant to refill the engine.

In preparation for arrival and also for our departure, Sven and Mark went over all the systems and Rita cleaned out cabinets and rearranged things in the galley. Today is our big deck cleaning and interior spiffing day so as to not waste time in a beautiful port doing these chores. Their friends arrive tomorrow and will move onboard Sunday morning.
The initial provisioning in Valdivia was disconcerting for Rita, as the reefer was very full and difficult to manage. Yesterday, with the great barren spaces in there, she realized just how to prepare for a long passage. Mark and Rita have both become much more intuitive about navigating, watching systems, checking for line or sail chafes, how to deal with longline fisherman who don’’t show up on the radar, spinnaker handling, reefing early and many other nuances of this type of sailing. They are intelligent and attentive and will function well as a team aboard aVida.

Rita made unbelievable French toast for breakfast and we, once again, found another excuse to enjoy the plum preserves so generously given by Martin’’s mom (THANKS). I thought that it was a huge jar of preserves when Martin brought it to me, but now, Rita and Mark are dreading reaching the end of it. We shared the sumptuous jarred pears given to us by Yasna’’s mom with dinner and Sven even drank all the juice from the bowl (THANKS).

As always, Alex has been sending daily weather reports and keeping a watchful eye. Roni is always watchful of us as well and this time, we have his son. Many thanks to Chris and all of you at Alwoplast for your support and for the privilege of sailing on another one of your beautiful boats.

See you soon. I’’ll say hello to the tortoises for you!
D

Sat 1130

We were greeted this morning with the ever-inspiring sight of blows off the starboard stern. Several humpbacks showed their tails and spouted for us. Glorious day indeed.
We had our last breakfast together onboard while discussing when we thought we would spot the first sight of land. This evoked a visible and audible disappointment from Rita much to my extreme pleasure. I have done my job well as this is the person who was not happy with being aboard and was doubting that she would ever embrace the long passages. Go Rita!

We decided to launch our favorite sail and take a slowing of progress for several reasons. We don’’t want to run too low on fuel; we don’’t care that much about getting there early, and sailing is MUCH more fun!

The decks have been scrubbed. We are packing our bags and cleaning the interior to prepare for the next chapter of aVida’’s life.

Thanks again love, D
SV-aVida

315 nm to go to our approach – 345 nm to port

Another great sailing day of 13-15 knots of wind with the spinnaker doing its job. At midnight, the wind fell to 8-10 knots so we are using the “iron genny” aka Volvo Penta 55 hp. Yesterday we stopped and went for an offshore swim as Rita and Sven had never done that. The water was warm and a beautiful translucent turquoise. We have those innate fears that have been ingrained in us from Jaws and Shark III movies that a shark will come and bite our legs out here. I am sure that seeing one laze by the day before had nothing to do with it. After looking around carefully ,we jumped in one-by-one, except for Rita who was pushed off the aft step by Mark. There is also something a little intimidating about how deep the ocean is out here and just how small it makes you feel. We all survived with all our appendages intact ,enjoying the feeling of the salt water on our hair and skin.

While we were stalled for swimming, Sven and I launched the dinghy while Rita and Mark set the spinnaker and sailed towards us. Those photos could possibly show up on someone’’s Christmas card. They sat on the bow with gigantic smiles as aVida slid by us. We did succeed in landing a large clear plastic bag and scooped it in the dinghy. I like to think that we may have saved a dolphin from swallowing that. Always love your Mother Earth.

On deliveries, there are always a few mantras that become part of the vernacular along the way. The one that is most commonly referred to on this and many other trips is “”We have time.”” For instance, we have time to make turks head knotted anklets and rings; we have time to read entire books without dealing with life in general; we have time to do the laundry by hand in a bucket on the aft deck.

Avida looks like a true cruising vessel now with every piece of Sven’’s clothes drying on the clothesline out there. Did I say clothesline? I meant the crossed pieces of spectra line that were strategically placed to keep the KVH antenna from vibrating too much and also to support the bimini that will provide shade in tropical places. Thanks, Alwoplast, for the clothesline. It’’s perfect.

We enjoyed another lunch and dinner with sashimi mahi, this time with grapefruit slices as we have exhausted our supplies of lemon and lime. Tough life! At latitude 6 degrees, the equatorial warmth and humidity are a welcome change to life in Valdivia (fondly referred to as “Valjuvia” – juvia meaning rain). Having to don his sweatshirt and long pants on the plane home from Quito is weighing heavily on Sven’’s mind.

Javier, our agent in Galapagos, emailed today to tell us that, by law, we must first clear into Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Isla San Cristobal, before proceeding to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Isla. They are very close together and I am supposing that because aVida is coming to Galapagos on a cruising permit and not an emergency repair stop, we must stop at the first island we approach from the south. No problemo.

We expect to arrive late Saturday evening, in the dark, of course. I am assuming that we will have to go to customs on Sunday morning and then over to Santa Cruz. Taking a walk and stretching sounds pretty good to me, no matter which port it is. I wonder if they have ceviche in Puerto Baquerizo? I hope that Sven has time to see the Darwin Center before we leave on Nov 23 for Quito.

Many days out. I cannot allow myself to dwell too much on home and family, but now that it is within reach, my thoughts are always there.

SV-aVida

Trip Tracker from Google Earth

One thing you can count on out here is that everything happens in the middle of the night. It seems that this is an excellent place to catch fish. Every few hours there appears (not particularly on the radar) a small light in the night accompanied by numerous blinking strobe lights just on the water surface. Small wooden fishing vessels with long lines strung out like a string of Christmas lights, hundreds of miles from anywhere resembling land, creep up just when the spinnaker has settled in and is happily pulling us along.

The spinnaker is a beautiful, but sensitive thing. Having to go 45 degrees off course doesn’’t make it happy. Luckily, the last one happened just as Sven was going off watch and I was coming on so that no one had to be woken up out of a sound sleep to wrestle with a gigantic piece of cloth that is dancing around overhead. Once past the two-mile circle around these lights, we head back towards our destination and the spinnaker gets unleashed. It’’s a love/hate thing, kind of like computers.

Yesterday was a sunny day! Light winds in the morning necessitated some motoring but the afternoon developed into a relaxing downwind sail enjoyed by all on the trampoline. It was especially nice to see that the “officina” was closed for the afternoon. Dolphins were jumping out of the water doing back flips and spins with more acrobatic action than Ringling Brothers on their best day. Sven hooked a 20 lb Mahi, forcing upon us another sashimi lunch.

Speaking of fishing boats, we were sailing along smoothly when the boat’’s rhythm changed. Sven and I looked at each other knowing that we had snagged yet another line. We stopped the boat. I put the wheel hard over so that we were beam to the seas, and Sven went swimming. He successfully freed it from the rudder but discovered an older piece wrapped around the port side prop shaft. After multiple attempts to cut it all off, it was decided to finish the job in Galapagos as it has been on there for a while and everything has been working fine. It is nice on such occasions to have someone so young on the boat who actually enjoys the adventure of diving the boat in the middle of the ocean.

Today we plan to launch the dinghy so that we can get some photos of aVida with the spinnaker flying. It is a shot that any boat owner truly appreciates having and not an easy one to get.

I think constantly of being home and am counting the days

SV-aVida

Boat delivery, one would think would make you thinner. Not always the case. What other job do you set your alarm for the middle of the night to get up and have tea and a couple of cookies? This is not my ordinary delivery, but one on which I have been hired to both bring aVida to Galapagos and to ensure that her new owners feel comfortable and confident about this amazing sailboat of theirs.

Saturday was a sailing day not to be forgotten. We had long rolling swells pushing us, accompanied by very steady 20 knot SSE winds. The spinnaker was pulling us along at 10-12 knots under overcast skies. Surfing down the fronts of the swells, aVida roared along at 15-20 knots. Unlike the smaller Atlantics I have delivered, the 57s don’’t even shake at 20 knots, just the whistling in the rigging and a slight roar as she reaches peak speeds triggers a glance at the speed indicator to see if we have set a daily record high. The crew cheers from time to time as we watch the numbers go higher and higher. 20.2 knots is our personal best so far.

The true wind was building after dinner to 25 knots so, preferring to err on the side of caution, I decided to replace the spinnaker with the genoa and jib wing-on-wing for the night. At 15 knots apparent wind, I worry about blowing out the spinnaker which is both expensive and a much-needed sail on this trip. The winds have subsided over the night to 16-18 so when daylight rears its head, we will hoist up the magnificent blue powerhouse sail and aVida will become the ultimate sailing machine once again.

Monday, November 16 m 0100

Did I forget to mention earlier that the Dione Sky, the trawler that was at Alwoplast when we left, belonged to the Mars Candy man? The generous crew left us with a 10-lb bag of assorted chocolates and candy for the trip. Rita tried to leave it there at the office, but I suggested that they bring it and give it to some kids in Galapagos or another one of their stops along the way if it doesn’’t get eaten on the trip. I hope the kids in Galapagos have some other candy. What once weighed 10 lbs is now about four.

Gradually, Rita and Mark’’s version of “la officina” has been open less and less. They have become accustomed to their post-lunch nap and Rita wove a basket yesterday. Sven had no problem easing into the segmented sleeping and lifestyle. Ah youth. Today is his 26th birthday. I think it will be a memorable birthday for him despite the absence of Gema and Catalina, the loves of his life.

For the first time on this trip, Mark and Rita trusted me to cook dinner. Those of you who know me can understand how difficult it has been not to be “the” cook. I miss my Viking Range but still managed to win them over a little bit, Everyone had seconds, even Mark! The spinnaker hoisting and dousing have morphed into a simple and well orchestrated maneuver from the Chinese fire drill they started out being. We don’’t have to say much and now Rita is the helmsman in training and doing a fine job of it.

Tuesday Nov 17th 0100 939 nm to Puerto Ayora!

It is a celebrated milestone on every voyage when we reach the triple digits left to arrival. It brings with it discussions of what to do first, plans for going home and, of course, the all important arrival time. Mark and Rita’’s friends will be waiting for them there, necessitating Sven and I to move ashore for what is most likely our one night before leaving for Quito. Today, while Sven and I stood by without any instruction, Mark and Rita successfully hoisted the spinnaker without our help. At that moment I felt satisfied that I am doing my job well and that they will have a long and adventurous relationship with aVida. The variable winds we are experiencing these last four cloud-filled days guarantee that they will have the pleasure of practicing at least a dozen more times. It’’s an Ella and Louie night reminding me of Catalina Island and so many fun times on my beautiful boat, Estimated Prophet. Did I mention 838 nm to go?

Wednesday, November 18 0430 – 715 nm to go

Fresh mahi sashimi for lunch with the few limes we have left and fresh mahi filets encrusted in cornmeal and spices for dinner – thanks to Sven. I knew we would be seeing them as soon as the first flying fish of the trip was on the deck this morning. The dorado are never far behind. Up until now, we found only squid in the mornings. Attracted by the navigation lights, they leap onto the deck. Of course, the first hit on the lure was in the middle of Sven and I dousing the spinnaker, again. That one didn’’t make it onboard. He ran back a bit too late only to see it leap up and splash backwards into the sea. They run in schools, so it wasn’’t long before we had it onboard and were pouring our cheap vodka into its gills. If we continue to average 8 knots we will arrive on Saturday Nov 21 around dinner time.

We are working hard at maintaining our progress and by the time we arrive, spinnaker setting and dousing will not be much of a struggle for Rita and Mark. We are all excited to be getting closer and Mark and Rita’’s friends arrive that day as well. They have a hotel room for the first night and then will move aboard. I have begun to mentally and physically organize my belongings in preparation for moving off aVida. It is now that I have a chance to reflect on the love that was sent along with me on this voyage from all of my friends at Alwoplast as the emotions of leaving them is too difficult to dwell on at first. We have been enjoying the plum preserves from Martin’’s mother, finished the last of the smoked salmon from his brother today, and Yasna’’s mother sent us a jar of pears that will be a part of today’’s dining fare. Carolina gave me a beautiful knit poncho with daisies on it; Marcia brought me a bag of wooden gifts for our house, all reminiscent of Valdivia. I am not sure how Martin knew that I always lose my keys, but he and Yasna gave me a wooden key holder with chickens on it to share with Alan. I have a stuffed rabbit that holds the last of my Wurthers candy in it from Janet. Jackie sent us some preserves from the Maripucci Indians and Edith, the Chinese doctor, gave me homemade preserves as well. What a wealthy person I am to have so many people care so much for me.

It has been cloudy for five days now with glimpses of the sun peaking through. Despite the overcast skies, the days are warmer and warmer. I do miss the stars at night more that the sun in the day and Rita promises us that tomorrow will be clear. The eternal optimist in me tends to agree.

SV-aVida

My old friend, Glen Rodgers, gave me a book entitled, The Water In Between” relating to the discovery of the joy of the getting there. There are those of us who feel this in their very bones and there are those who never will. Neither opinion is right or wrong, just one of those basic, “chocolate and vanilla” things in life.

The first day is always a bit of an adjustment and ours was a rip-roaring leap into flying across the ocean. With a double reefed main and a reefed genoa we averaged 10 knots surfing down the front of giant sw swells and rattling from the smack of the ones that caught us under the wind decks on the beam, It was a difficult adjustment to the noise and motion for some of us but by lunch time the next day, there was laughter over our atne (tuna) sandwiches and discussion of our first fishing attempts since leaving Higuerillas.

Sven has the starboard side with the trolling rod and Mark sports the custom made hand line (a combination of Kevin’’s ready-to-be-patented design and Alwoplast’s ingenious construction). Rita is supervising her two fisherman and snapping photos of Sven’s absurd costume. Smiles everywhere, sun is shining. The bottle of cheap vodka is standing by to subdue any unsuspecting pescadore who might take the bait. We were unable to find any appropriate offshore lures in Valdivia, but the fishing continues anyway.

Our day yesterday was quite a change. The winds softened and moved aft calling for our first hoisting of the new spinnaker. The motion of the boat changes drastically and as the boat is pulled gently along in the calm seas. We spent time perusing photos from the book on Galapagos, practicing knots, and exchanging some new Spanish/English terms.
Bowline = az dw guia
Calipso = the turquoise color fo the water rushing by the hatch in the galley
Cena = dinner (tonight consisiting of sopa de pollo y arroz con ensalalda)
Pasas = raisons
Pescadore = fisherman

The watches at night are going smoothly with Mark and Rita on from 2100 to 2400, Sven 2400-0300 and me from 0300-0600. It is during watch that you get to enjoy your personal space, listen to whatever music you like and let thoughts drift towards home. It is this time when I miss home so very much but also get reflective in the quiet surrounded by the magnificent ocean.

Alan has told me that the house is finished being painted! I can hardly wait to come home for so many other reasons, but seeing it all finished will be amazing. I understand that he is a 5 egg a day man now and his flock is thriving. Tonka has decided that my mother is his new best friend and our friends and family are keeping my sweetheart company.

Every hour that passes brings me closer to home. Well, more later, but the battery is dying a slow death on my computer right now and to recharge it will have to wait until we run the engine to charge the batteries. Guess I will be forced to go back to my book and listening to the Grateful Dead, Subdudes, Etta James and the Jayhawks for now. Ahh the life of a captain on the high seas.

Saturday, Nov 14 0400

1526 nm to Puerto Ayora
first day 220 nm
second day 186 nm very light winds
third day 200 nm
fourth day TBD at 2000 tonight
Today will be over 240, I think. We have had 15 knots of wind directly behind us all day and night. We are averaging 10 knots with the spinnaker happily dancing above the boat. Still no fish,though. Rita insists that today will be the big day for that. Sven and I continue to perform the daily ritual, he has now moved his station from the port side to propping up in the dinghy on the aft deck. I remain starboard with the hand line. From past experience I can testify that it is not wise to fish with a pole near the wind generator. Right Wally? I am blaming the lack of appropriate lures.

My Spanish continues to improve and, much to Alan’’s dismay, I have learned the new phrase “has la cama” (make the bed). I did also learn “dulces suenos” (sweet dreams) to balance the equation. We have not seen any traffic out here since the first day of leaving Higuerillas and typically won’’t see much for the next 4-5 days.

Last night, I made tricolor penne with garlic, olive oil, mushrooms and onions, salad (we have 2-3 days of salad left then on to other veggies that keep longer) accompanied by :jiva” (fresh picked crab claw meat that is sooooo sweet). It seems that maybe I am winning Mark and Rita over a little bit as they both had generous helpings.

Everyday is getting progressively warmer and shorts were the dress code of the day yesterday. Tomorrow I will retire the polar fleece for the remainder of the trip. I look forward to arriving in Galapagos and coming home. Our flights to Quito, Equador are on Nov 23, then home on Nov 24. The traditional poll of our arrival time has begun – I chose Nov. 22 at 1830.

Every time I open my computer to write I am comforted by photos of my people. I bid you farewell today as I am looking at my favorite boys, Sam and Auggie. Before that was Bodhii and my mom.

See you soon!
D

Hey Mom, I think I am ready for a pedicure when I come home. The purple nail polish has finally worn off. Miss you. XXXXOOOOOOOOXXXXXXXXX

We left our mooring at Higeurillas Yacht Club to sail in 15-20 knots of SW winds. Nothing could have been more perfect. The voyage to Puerta Ayora, Galapagos from there is 2180 nm. So far we are reveling in the starry night and sunny day this first 24 hours. Sven is a natural sailor and I cannot begin to imagine how it must feel to be flying along at 10-12 knots in the boat he worked everyday to create.

Rita prepared fresh beautiful salad, queso empanadas and I made some veggie fried rice. As always, roughing it on the Atlantic 57s. We are all so inspired by the machine we are sailing and its ability to move so swiftly while still providing a comfortable passage and most importantly, a relaxing dinner environment.

It is 1040 on Wednesday and our position is 31 S, 72 47 W. I am still thinking about how the night converges with the day and silvery tones reveal the seas that pushed, crashed and rolled us along on our way to Galapagos. In the darkest hours of the night, the sounds and sensations of the wind and water are amplified as the visual perception of the equation disappears. It is somehow soothing not to see the immensity of these offshore swells, yet mysterious when one sense is deprived.

It takes a day or two for everyone to fall into the rhythm of passage making. I, on the other hand, am exhilarated by the sea and all it offers to us. Last night I had the most amazing dreams of Nokotas playing in our field and taking long walks with Leif and Tonka. Imagine that!

I miss you all and will write again soon.
D

Well … we were sailing along at 10 knots in a beautiful south westerly wind. There surfaced some critical charging problems that could not be handled at sea. We changed course to Valparaiso, Chile to meet Roni and Sven from Alwoplast. On the way we enjoyed a humback whale and two finbacks … just a glimpse of what is to come. I truly enjoy spending my brithday on the ocean despite missing my family and friends immensely. But instead I enjoyed ceviche and yes, more Chilean wine in the company of Mark, Rita, Kevin, Sven and ROni. Not my family, but such close friends.

Kevin’s scedule does not allow him to continue with us so Sven will finsh the trip to Galapagos. Nothing like a 27 year old to take on the heavy lifting. We have agreed to help each other with English/Spanish along the way. The paperwork cha cha took up most of Monday but we are almost cleared out of here now. Immigration has stamped our passports to leave and the armada is on the way.

I will keep my journal along the way, write when I can and upload the rest when I arrive in about 10 days.

Love D